All Greek To Me

Non-working fuel gauge could well be that the sender unit in the tank has given up the ghost, a common problem. New ones are available from JR Wadhams but they are frustratingly non-linear. They cause the gauge to show full for longer than it should, then plummet downwards frighteningly quickly almost to zero at which point there's still a good third of a tankful left.
 
Yes that has been the problem with fuel gauges in other elderly vehicles I have owned. My only hope that it wasn't the sender is that the electrics are so haphazard I am hoping it might be dodgy wiring that is the cause. Anyway thanks for your advice and I hope I can post a good outcome soon .Not a good idea to enter an event with unreliable gauges!
 
Mate, no probs! We are sort of from Australia so used to wide boys trying to take the mickey! However also happy to share knowledge on P6s!
Thanks for the offer...and if ever you are near Poros let us know.........so we can be in Athens, Rhodes or similar. Love your work!
Did you live in Melbourne?
 
Non-working fuel gauge could well be that the sender unit in the tank has given up the ghost, a common problem. New ones are available from JR Wadhams but they are frustratingly non-linear. They cause the gauge to show full for longer than it should, then plummet downwards frighteningly quickly almost to zero at which point there's still a good third of a tankful left.

Your temp a gauge works so your voltage regulator is probably good.

Short the wire at the fuel sender underneath the car to a good earthing point, and then look at the gauge with the ignition turned on. If it goes to full, then you have good wiring and need to pull the sender. At this stage you will probably have a full tank of fuel, so drive it a bit until you get it down as low as you dare without having to walk home. Then then you can disconnect the fuel lines underneath the car, then pound on the ring with a brass drift that holds in the sender, after the fuel has drained out.

Mine had some apart. I bought a split rivet to connect the conductors back together. Then a little flux and silver solder to hold it back together. It has worked well now for 15 years.

The floats can fail and cease to float. I think there are replacement floats available.
 
Thank you very much for that information. At this stage we haven't moved on to the electrics so we have some exciting times ahead! The fuel gauge is a vital bit of kit - although of course here is a reserve tank. We also have a sparkie coming to help us and he has had a succession of 2000s over the years so hope he can work out what needs to be attached to what. I started my time in Oz in Melbourne but moved to Sydney after a couple of years and have lived there and Canberra.
 
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