Posted Recently on this blog
I Ive recently removed , repaired and replaced my ignition module on my P6b.
I experienced the absolute terror of my P6 cutting out on the motorway while in the inside lane. Managed to get her restarted as I eased her onto the shoulder.
She did it again a few days...
I'd be going the long screw driver/drill down the distributor method first . Certainly the easiest. Another is cranking the motor over with the spark plugs removed.
often its the clear plastic pipe that runs from the delay unit by the wiper motor to the back of the steering binnacle and the little white toggle . It gets a split in it and wont sustain a vacuum.
Has anyone pulled the heater box out of a P6 with factory A/c ?
There's a bit more plumbing coming out of the heaterbox.
Im interested in the process as my heater has lost its magic over the years and suspect the seal.
thats if Murphy's law came into being and all nuts dropped off at the same time.
Besides , am I the only guy that checks all nuts are in place each day before taking the car out of the garage?
I am OCD ,
If you do go down the SD1 cannister route , just be aware the larger throat will hit the top of the carburettor tower. May be a lump of rubber between the two will absorb that wear point.
I also had to redrill the two holes on the frame that fit on the pegs at the back of the motor. Otherwise...
I converted to electronic ignition years ago.
Better starting on the starter motor -within seconds, easier on the battery, smoother running , better spark plug life, better acceleration, better fuel economy. Bigger smile
Forget lite weight starter motor !! esp if it aint broke.
- go e-ignition...
The P6 cannister takes the bigger A1705 filters but it is still restricted with the narrower inlet port c/f the SD1 cannister. As I dont do high speed motoring much nowadays ,I stuck with the P6 cannister. She does breathe and accelerate better Im sure of that.
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