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" 2 people for bonnet/hood and boot/trunk is advised. " Wimps! Though to be fair, the bonnet is a handful if you’re on the shorter side. Yours Vern

I don't have one handy, but it’s about an inch as I recall. That line is fairly short, just goes to the reserve tap. Tricky bit is I’ve never been successful trying to remove the metal end and inserting a new one in the same bit of plastic. Yours Vern

I’ve been having good success with this cover, cheap and so far seems reasonably durable (8 months now and not showing any sun wear) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C3Z1K1BL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Yours Vern

Could have been a conversion. Turning a 2000 into a 2200 was all the rage in the 90s, I have two engines like that. Yours Vern

The door key hole is round, not teardrop and has no cover. Functionally the latch is the same, the difference is the way the levers and rods inside the door attach to the latch. Round were used up to mid 1968 ish (NADA timing, probably 1967 for the local market) If you can’t find one locally...

That is worn. Not that I’ve paid much attention, but I’ve never seen one worn like that before. Without the sharp edge I could see it bouncing open. So I’m changing my opinion, you need a replacement. But I don’t think you need to find NOS, a good used would do. There are two flavours of latch...

I’ve never (yet) known a door latch to wear out, before searching for a replacement I’d go thorough all the adjustment procedures. Yours Vern

I’m not sure about the 80 mm, but in any event that one doesn't have the fluid warning float & switch. Yours Vern

A how to. Yours Vern

Another example of the US/British language divide. Yours Vern

The white valve is just pushed into the rubber ring there, it will come out without too much effort by prying with a tool between the white flange and the rubber ring. Once you have it out, you can twirst the valve to loosen it in the rubber hose, then pull it out. The comment about needing...

Over the years I’ve only seen two cases of the bonnet blowing open on a P6. Both cases it was on the safety hook, not properly closed. In one case the nose of the car had been damaged and straightened out and the safety hook barely hooked. The other one was a mystery. I’ve driven many different...

But by my math the tire centerline should be nearly the same if the 5.5 rim’s offset is 7.5 mm greater than the 5 inch rim. Certainly not 9 mm different (.5” = 12.7 mm, divide by two = 6.35 mm, while the actual 5.5" offset is 7.5 mm more than the 5” wheel, just over a mm more.). Yours Vern

5/16 UNC Yours Vern

By the way, one thing to look for is that the bolt is the right length. The two there, going throught the engine stay, should be 7/8”. The other two are 3/4”. It’s possible to install those backwards, which makes it easier to strip the thread. Yours Vern

If the metric bolt tap drill is roughly the same size as a helicoil I think it’s a toss up. If the metric is significantly larger, that would favour the helicoil. Personally, I’d helicoil it so I could retain the original bolt, they don't make them that good anymore. Yours Vern

The main symptom of a loose flange nut is an erratic speedo that lags badly under acceleration. For future reference. Yours Vern

The selector “finger” is available, if it’s the type just held on with a roll pin. I’m not sure about the earlier style with a bolt, but a Mk2 car shouldn;t have that style. Yours Vern

On the other hand, now that the sediment is gone & you have a plan to avoid future build up, why bother? That’s basically why I’m not sure I have a example to show you, lol. Yours Vern

The neatest installation (I think) is the metal & glass cleanable type of filter spliced into the plastic line that runs from the pump to carbs, placing the filter just to the right of where the fuel line is clipped to the hoisting bracket. The filter nipples are (assuming the same part) sized...

Please tell us a bit more about the car, just becasue we like to hear about any of the early cars that show up. As for a parts catalog, my earliest that covers the single carb cars is part number 606128 from April 1969. It does cover the earliest cars, but in many cases the part numbers are for...

As far as the chrome vs black rings, my understanding is the 65 up to early 66 cars had the chrome, and the black rings started in 66 through the rest of Series 1 production. Yours Vern

I love a good expert, particularly when they expert for free. Yours Vern

It is possible to put it in the wrong way round, but the lever would then be obviously in the wrong place. So I’d bet on the washer being missing. Yours Vern

What are the actual sizes of the old vs new pulley? And the second question is, are you in the habit of winding the engine up to the redline when you drive the car? The first question is so we can figure out how much faster the small pulley will turn. And if the answer to the second question is...