Lots of oddball (to UK eyes) combinations in SA, usually big engines in small cars, 2•6 litre E series six pots in marinas spring to mind, (I bet they handled well....), and was it a Perana, a Capri with a V8? Plus all the aforementioned P100s.
I've replaced shells in worse condition than those to help bump up low oil pressure and never had any problems afterwards, so if they all come out in a similar condition I'd just replace them with new.
Make sure that the hose from the top of the rad to the top of the inlet manifold is clear. The pipe that goes into the manifold is prone to blockage, causing the engine to run hot, which can cause vaporisation.
Not necessarily. You need to check the switch on the cable behind the centre console and make sure that it's fitted correctly and working as a first stop, and check that the otter switch is only earthing out when the engine is up to temperature.
If you twist the choke knob and the light goes out...
That's it. That one is made to the early spec, later ones don't have the four grooves shown on one end. Those grooves were supposed to be against the bearing.
It only needs one bolt to drop out for the plate to drop down on that side. Every single nut and bolt should be checked for tightness before and after each journey. (BTW, it's not OCD, it's CDO, the letters should always be in alphabetical order....);)
But that won't do anything to stop the diff plate dropping down, all it might do is stop the bolt going through the screen of the bloke driving behind you.
What can happen is a failure of the timing case gasket around the oil gallery from the sump, if this happens it can draw air into the gallery and it won't prime.
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