2000TC clutch slave cylinder inside diameter

sdibbers

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
Hi folks,
I could use some help. I have a 1968 2000TC that I have just rebuilt the engine on. While at it I replaced the clutch. The old dragged when attempting to disengage and I found the the old flywheel had had the alignment pins removed in the past. I assumed that had caused issuess with drag. But now a new clutch assembly is in I wonder if the previous owner had replaced the slave cylinder with the wrong unit. The clutch had always felt lighter than other p6s I've driven and the lever doesn't appear to move much when the clutch pedal is depressed.

I know that a slave from an MG midget is meant to work but I also know that there are two internal diameters specced for the
MG. I'm wondering if the old owners shop had fitted a larger diameter cylinder hence light pedal and low movement.

Any help or ideas are greatfully recieved!

Cheers,

steven
 
At risk of teaching Grandma.... Have you bled the clutch system? The symptoms sound consistant with a heavily aerated system.

Chris
 
I haven't bled the clutch system, because I just moved the slave to one side during the engine removal. But of course I should try that. The slave on there was fitted by the previous owners mechanic and pretty much everything else this guy did was wrong or poorly executed so I think it would be a good check to be on the safe side.

I'm in the situation of having a lovely sounding engine and not being able to drive the car on a road test :(

many thanks,

steven
 
Quick update. Bled the system and it's made no real difference. The slave cylinder ID is 1" and I think it should be 7/8" or 3/4" ID. If someone could check theirs or had the ID to hand that would really help. This would certainly be par for course with the other work carried out on the car of this is the wrong part.

Cheers,

steven
 
Steve,
Write to me <p6rovers@yahoo.com> and I'll give you the username and password for the old Rovernet archives. There is a searchable window so you can search for such things as "Clutch Slave", etc.

I took this offline due to all the messages getting shot out onto the Internet and members noticed that the Spam trollers had found their addresses.

When we move operations to another service provider, I'll put the protected links in a more obvious location for real Rover enthusiasts. :)

Eric
 
Hi Eric
Tganks I will. Fortunately Row passed by this afternoon and I measured his slave bore. It seems that it should be 7/8". I'll order the correct part Monday and should be okay then. Things been dodgy ever since I've owned the car so not really surprised. ESP after seeing some of the other work the previous owners mechanic had performed.

Cheers,

steven
 
I checked a parts list I had and 7/8" is right.
A slave cylinder for a classic Mini also fits.

Eventually, you'll get it all right plus you will have learned to much.
Are you going to RoveAmerica '10? :wink:

Eric
 
Perhaps the 1" bore slave cylinder is from the 2200.
I have installed a 2200 slave cylinder in my 2000 TC knowing that it has a larger bore and the clutch pedal is light now and the clutch disengages normaly.

Maybe you should left it as it is.

Demetris
 
Hi Eric

hoping to make it this year. I should email Dirk to see if it's too late to sign up.

Demitrius, it only just disengages with the 1" bore on my car. There's very slight drag but it's enough to affect the gear change quality. I don't mind a heavier clutch pedal in exchange for a longer lived gearbox. BTW is the master cylinder different on the 2200?

Cheers,

Steven
 
Steve,
For what its worth .....
About 1990, I had a 2000 TC bought as is, mechanically, and a 2000 TC which I had rebored the engine to 2200 and renewed or renovated all the mechanicals. Ruth had suggested going with an earlier clutch. The clutch on the restoration was easier to depress and changed gears more smoothly. The clutch on the original was harder to depress and so less smooth.

Finding:
The restoration with the early-type clutch had the clutch assembly with the circular pad and the throw-out sleeve with a *matching* thinner end that touched that sleeve.
The original 2000 had a later-type clutch assembly with just the spring fingers showing and the throw-out sleeve with a thicker end to compensate for the lack of pad on the clutch assembly.

Have a discussion with Ruth on that topic. :)
<allbritishcars@shaw.ca>

A poorly operating slave cylinder (leaks past the seal, actuating arm not adjusted properly) will give a poor clutch operation - like dragging. :(
A later type clutch assembly will give a harder clutch pedal and less-smooth gear changing. :(

That's I found with my 20 years and 2 Rovers,....... anyway.. :idea:
 
Worth knowing. Thanks for that Eric. My setup is the later type with diaphram fingers going to a central pad for the sleeve. The slave was fitted just before I bought the car and is probably aroud five to six year old. The seals and cylinder look to be in excellant condition with no corrosion on bore or evidence of leaking or swollen seals.

I actually find the clutch too light for my liking. It's hard to feel the bite point and with the full travel of the pedal required it's not ideal for comfort.

Cheers

s-
 
Steve,
I hope that the clutch withdrawal sleeve (should have thick pad at the end due to the "finger" type clutch assembly you have) matches the clutch assembly. If the clutch assembly was matched for the early clutch assembly (thin sleeve) and now has a late-type assembly (no pad), there would be too much of a gap for the clutch to work well. (Somewhere, I have a picture showing three variations. If I find the picture, I'll let you know)

Best wishes, :D

Eric
 
My cover has the pad and the sleeve plus clutch release assembly measure up as a match according to the Rover factory repair manual. I was quite careful about this as I didn't want to pull the engine out of the car more than I had to :)
 
It's good that you have eliminated variables as you went.
It makes fault-finding.....later...... so much easier. :)

Eric
 
Thanks Joseph

I have a 7/8" cylinder arriving tomorrow. Shoud be in a much better place by then.

Cheers,

Steven
 
Final update. have fitted and bled the 7/8" slave, what a difference! Much better clutch feel and no longer dragging! Happy bunny!
 
Hi guys

Read all of this with great interest.

The clutch pedal on my 1970 2000 TC has been very heavy ever since my mechanic fitted a new clutch. He said it might get easier to operate over time but it hasn't. Any thoughts on what action I can take (or more possibly instruct my new mechanc to take) to make it lighter? Thks.
 
Hi Roll

Things come to mind. One, the pressure plate having new springs will be heavier to operate. That may abate some with use but I wouldn't hold my breath. The other is that the 2000 slave cylinder is cross ref'd with one for the midget. The midget came with both a 3/4" and 7/8" bore. If your mechanic replaced the slave cylinder you may find he used the incorrect 3/4" bore. Unlikely but worth a try.

If that doesn't work maybe try and source a 1" bore later 2200 slave. That'll be lighter but I found it only just had enough throw to release the clutch on my 68 2000tc.
 
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