i have just today swapped the front 3 pot calipers to four pot from a defender circa 1995 . am i a bad person?
The old calipers had been drilled out roughly at the brake nipple and a bolt had replaced the nipple plus they were seized solid at the pistons due to being stood since 2010.
They are a tight fit on the 14 inch wheels but dont catch so thats a good thing . also the copper brake pipe had to have a 90 degree bend almost immediately after it exits the caliper because the hole is on the side not on top. but it misses the bottom arm when the suspension is moved up or down, another good thing.
have tried and tested them with violent turns and braking and can report a success . hope to eventually replace these with oem brakes but being on a very low budget at least it is driveable.
I also put new pads in the rear calipers ,took about 3 to 4 hours as i undid the driveshafts and had the discs out to sand the high points of rust off. so therefore i did not need the silly piston wind back tool.
Oh in the front caliper i managed to snap a fixing bolt so i had to drill out the old bolt to within a millimeter of the threads and removed the remaining tube by using a joiners spade bit with a sharp point. then had to search the box of doom, must be a thousand old and new bolts collected over several car renovations, for a bolt with the correct thread , lo and behold i found one an inch too long so after first screwing a nut on past the cutting point which would clean and cut the correct thread at the end when removed. i cut it with my battery grinder with a slitting disc .eat your heart out Ed China with your top tips.
next job is the fuel tank sender .(the gauge is ok as when i joined the two wires at the tank connection the needle moved straight up to full. another top tip , please send your donations to the ian edmond benevolent fund.
The old calipers had been drilled out roughly at the brake nipple and a bolt had replaced the nipple plus they were seized solid at the pistons due to being stood since 2010.
They are a tight fit on the 14 inch wheels but dont catch so thats a good thing . also the copper brake pipe had to have a 90 degree bend almost immediately after it exits the caliper because the hole is on the side not on top. but it misses the bottom arm when the suspension is moved up or down, another good thing.
have tried and tested them with violent turns and braking and can report a success . hope to eventually replace these with oem brakes but being on a very low budget at least it is driveable.
I also put new pads in the rear calipers ,took about 3 to 4 hours as i undid the driveshafts and had the discs out to sand the high points of rust off. so therefore i did not need the silly piston wind back tool.
Oh in the front caliper i managed to snap a fixing bolt so i had to drill out the old bolt to within a millimeter of the threads and removed the remaining tube by using a joiners spade bit with a sharp point. then had to search the box of doom, must be a thousand old and new bolts collected over several car renovations, for a bolt with the correct thread , lo and behold i found one an inch too long so after first screwing a nut on past the cutting point which would clean and cut the correct thread at the end when removed. i cut it with my battery grinder with a slitting disc .eat your heart out Ed China with your top tips.
next job is the fuel tank sender .(the gauge is ok as when i joined the two wires at the tank connection the needle moved straight up to full. another top tip , please send your donations to the ian edmond benevolent fund.