Recent content by jp928

Locate the sensor on the engine. pull the wire and ground it to engine - gauge should now go full scale. If yes lead and gauge are good, sensor is bad. If no, lead or gauge is bad - dismount the instrument panel, there is a volatge stabilizer to give 10v to temp gauge and another - pushed onto 2...

Note that the oiling system is not symmetrical. The RHS oil gallery down the block supplies the RHS lifters and main bearings and rods, but the LHS gallery ONLY supplies that sides lifters. One mod suggested by Hammill is to drill feed holes to the 3 centre mains from the LHS gallery (not a...

Wish I had found this thread before I posted my query on the larger dia spring! At this age the booster has almost certainly been replaced/overhauled before, so the spring may have been added already if there was a change in the air valve kit parts. Recently bought kit did not include a new...

sdibbers said "If the air valve piston is fitted with two seals there is an unofficial mod to remove one of the seals to prevent brake hang on." Yes, useful, but WHICH ONE? Or doesnt it matter?

I got a set a couple of years ago. Thing to watch is that despite being copied off original factory parts they are slightly asymmetric.

Re Autocorrect - the man who invented it died recently - the funnel is tomato. For bleeding I use a Motive Power pressure bleeder - first step is connecto to master reservoir, pump to 10 psi, wait 10-15mins and check there is no pressure loss before adding any fluid.

Re this old booster I bought - it had around 1/2 pint of nasty looking fluid in the chamber - obviously going out for rebuild. Also , it had a short pipe on the output to connect to the T piece. Something to learn from one end - when you overtighten brake union tube nuts behind a flared end ...

Yes, we know that now, BUT why is it not shown in any of the diagrams, and NOBODY has reported seeing one until now? Note that I have reported the late air valve is noticeably stiffer than the original , which has the spring.

Mystery sort of solved. Got a late model booster - supposedly off last P6b imported to Oz, around 76, 77. It has a big dia soft spring in the air valve housing, slightly different from mine - a little conical . Surprising that nobody has seen these before.

With the spring fitted outboard of the diaphragm all seems in order, with the old diaphragm. Only possible test left is to reassemble without the spring....but why bother if its working? Found a diagram of the Delphi rebuild kit (LK1165) which does not show a spring in there, so mine seems to be...

I have a sensor in the top; thermostat is 83C, switch is at 89C. This is in an MX5 system, where the real gauge readings are 'Cold-normal-headgasket' because of suppression. When you have a temp gauge that reads true (rather than one that is suppressed to read normal most of the time) you can do...

I had a fuel problem, but I left the pipe running along the LHS of the block, and ran a length of heat resistant tubing (Firesleeve) over it, from the pump , along the block and over the bellhousing. solved several possible issues.

Re electric fans and switches - there are adaptors to fit switches in rad hoses available -...

Getting the filler neck free of the first hose was the least of my problems - grabbed it once with variable jaw long pliers and it let go. Despite a bit of grease on the end getting it started into the hose was a bit of a pain. Only test left now is does fuel leak when pumping it in? edit:- Yes...

Initially I thought the top flange of the rubber was under the decker panel where the screw holes are, but looking at the old grommet I see impressions of the 4 screw points on the underside, so the flange goes on the top side, which makes complete sense if we want to seal the boot from water...