Recent content by MrSoreto

Hi, I'm having some starting issues. And as the weather here has now reached sub-zero temperatures.. it's become a real problem. I already replaced the battery and starting with jump leads makes no difference, so it's my guess the starter motor is at fault. My p6 is fitted with a V8 efi from a...

Thanks for the heads-up everyone, I'll start soaking the bolts as soon as I get home from work. It'll be several days before I can get around to it, so maybe it will help. :) I really hope they come undone nicely.. :shock:

Thanks everyone, I have ordered a pump and a set of bolts. Let's hope I get her back on the road swiftly, I'm currently using my girlfriend's '78 saab 99, which is fun for a change... but I miss that V8. :P

This kit seems to be made specifically for the job. Which implies there is a difference. Amazing how something so simple can become a daunting task! :roll:

Do you know if the required bolts are the same if you have an SD1 engine? I believe the timing cover is different..

Thanks!

The waterpump on my p6 started leaking, the shaft seal seems to be failing and there is a lot of play in the shaft. Needless to say I need a new pump, but since my car is fitted with an SD1 engine I need to make sure I get the right one. I believe in order to fit a SD1 engine in a P6 the...

I used ceramic grease, which I was told doesn't harm rubber.

Thanks, I have heard that copper grease is harmful to rubber components. There is no risk of it damaging the dust-seals on the pistons?

I've been refurbishing my brakes, and currently I'm rebuilding the front calipers. Starting to look good! :D But I'm not sure where the copper grease should be applied, is it just between the pads and the shims? Or also on the back of the shims at the piston side?

I'll be looking out for a replacement shaft then, are the propshafts on the 2000, 2200, 3500 automatics the same? Or do I specifically need a 3500 shaft?

That's good to know, should be easy to source then. :) I would still like to make sure the alignment is correct though, any idea how to go about that?

Hi everyone, I have been hunting down the vibrations in my drivetrain, so far I have gotten my wheels balanced, refurbished the half shafts and fitted new u-joints to them (old ones were pretty stiff and rusted), changed the oil in the diff, overhauled the rear hubs (new wheel bearings)...

But if you don't mill out the entire length of the original cylinder you should have an almost seamless transition from the bearing race to the original cylinder wall. This way there is no gap to speak of, so I don't think the sleeve would be any more likely to be driven out than when running...

But the bottom part of the piston is tapered to allow the brake fluid to enter, so the bottom bit isn't used for guiding the piston I think. I'll measure it when I have the time to see how much of the cilinder wall can be maintained without it causing problems for the piston.