Recent content by Tom W

  1. Tom W

    Coolant Capacity?

    First question is how much coolant came out when you drained it? 4 litres is not enough to fill the system from empty. There’s a bypass on the 4cyl in front of the thermostat housing. This should allow any air in the block to reach the top of the system, irrespective of what the thermostat is...
  2. Tom W

    Rolling road and carb setup

    Wherever you go, just tell them before they start, “that they shouldn’t take anything for granted as being set up correctly already”. A good rolling road tuner will then work through methodology. They’ll be checking things like compressions, timing (including validating the TDC pointer is...
  3. Tom W

    How Far Have You Driven Your P6

    I used to commute weekly between Southampton and South Lincolnshire in mine, about 170 miles each way. I’d have basic tools with me for the journey, and do preventative maintenance when I was home at the weekends.
  4. Tom W

    3500 Rear Shock Rubbers

    Try Jaguar C3053, anti-roll bar bush.
  5. Tom W

    Unobtainable parts

    Interesting discussion, thanks folks. I think 3D printing and other low volume manufacturing methods have moved the game on substantially from where things were 20 years ago. Even if you don’t print the final parts, it’s still useful for prototyping, and reducing tooling cost. Printed prototypes...
  6. Tom W

    series 2 Kienzle clock repair.

    I fixed mine without adding any new solder as I wasn’t sure exactly what the melting point of the original was. If you can’t do that, best to start with the lowest melt and workup if it keeps fusing.
  7. Tom W

    Unobtainable parts

    Hi everyone, I’m thought I’d do a little research on P6 parts. Which bits are we really struggling to get, either at all, or where the available parts are just rubbish. Some from me to kick things off: Moulded rubber parts that are a proper copy of the original, with all the right inserts...
  8. Tom W

    Door glass seals / rubbers

    Depressing. We do seem to be struggling for rubber parts for the P6. I replaced my handbrake gaiter a couple of years back. The replacement was much harder than the original, had a nasty shiny finish, and had a poorly finished join line which actually had a slight split in it. I glued the split...
  9. Tom W

    Door glass seals / rubbers

    It’s the scraper seal that runs along the bottom of the side windows on the outside of the glass. Original Rover seals were moulded, with rounded ends, and cutouts to clear the quarter light frames. Some replacements are from an extruded section, so you have to trim them to fit, not ideal. Does...
  10. Tom W

    series 2 Kienzle clock repair.

    Yes, it springs away when the solder melts. It’s a basic fuse to protect the coil in there.
  11. Tom W

    Running issues!!

    That’s not the case for my 4cyl. The feed for the ignition is un-fused (white wires). True, the ignition feed does connect to the screen washer fuse, but it connects to the live, un-fused side of it, i.e. before the fuse. Or more correctly, the fuse for the screen washer is fed from the ignition...
  12. Tom W

    Running issues!!

    You can, but that’s not an ideal way to do it. The washer bottle circuit is fused. If you have a fault in that circuit that blows the fuse, the circuit will still be able to draw current through the ballast wire, which isn’t ideal. If you disconnect and insulate one end of the ballast wire, and...
  13. Tom W

    Leaking Su Carb Float Bowl

    Everything besides the re-bushing can be done at home. If it does need re-bushing, I think you can get just that bit done at Burlen, then complete the rest of the rebuild yourself.
  14. Tom W

    Removing front uprights

    I have one of those style ball joint splitters already. I much prefer it to the pickle fork style. I’m not sure it will work on the P6 though, the gaitors go down all the way to the arms, so there nowhere to slide the forks in around the pin. Have you used it successfully on the P6?
  15. Tom W

    Removing front uprights

    The brakes, hubs and backplates are removed at the moment. Maybe this is best left assembled as is this time? I don’t want to damage the balljoints, as they don’t need replacing yet, so don’t want to be striking on the ball pin itself. I’ve only had mixed results in removing tapers before by...
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