Ohh but I did, have derust the thing and spray paint it, all the flaps have new foam. I did disassemble it totally and inspect the heater radiator for leaks. pressuring it. and did the break booster also who was rusted.
Rover P6 renewing project after 42 years barn live.
- Thread starter kees66
- Start date
Ohh but I did, have derust the thing and spray paint it, all the flaps have new foam. I did disassemble it totally and inspect the heater radiator for leaks. pressuring it. and did the break booster also who was rusted.
![DSCN5599[1].JPG](/data/attachments/24/24347-570b5930ecbaff7c9fa262007084a61f.jpg)
Now I have remove the ignition stuff and clean it, the advance pot is leak, so
I go restore it.
quite easy with this rubber. bore out the ring holding rubber in pin, and tap
thread in it for a 3mm bold. Did go fine.
did use 1mm think rubber. it is nitrile rubber and stand all kind of oils, chemicals
I go restore it.
quite easy with this rubber. bore out the ring holding rubber in pin, and tap
thread in it for a 3mm bold. Did go fine.
500 x 500mm NBR Nitrile Rubber Buna Plate Sheet Gasket 1mm 2mm 3mm to 6mm Black | eBay
Product Color:Black.
www.ebay.com
did use 1mm think rubber. it is nitrile rubber and stand all kind of oils, chemicals
Attachments
I have start the car with sparkplugs removed and some oil there.
The oil pressure do rise to middle 30 and when stop, it slowly drops back,
this last almost 5 minutes or so. Starter motor is not oke, it just clicks and
sometimes starter go work, so start relais is damaged or contacts are dirty
oxidated because of the long time in barn.
Al stuff works, light, interior lights, etc, Carbs are cleaned and ready.
I do not now if I have the 10.,5 compression or the 8.5 compression I do not now where to look.
Have clean and paint the radiator, so it is ready again. Soon I want to start the engine
after oil change.
Is it right the paint colour number is behind the backseat?.
thanks.
The oil pressure do rise to middle 30 and when stop, it slowly drops back,
this last almost 5 minutes or so. Starter motor is not oke, it just clicks and
sometimes starter go work, so start relais is damaged or contacts are dirty
oxidated because of the long time in barn.
Al stuff works, light, interior lights, etc, Carbs are cleaned and ready.
I do not now if I have the 10.,5 compression or the 8.5 compression I do not now where to look.
Have clean and paint the radiator, so it is ready again. Soon I want to start the engine
after oil change.
Is it right the paint colour number is behind the backseat?.
thanks.
Attachments
Last edited:
colnerov
Well-Known Member
The compression ratio is located with the engine number, depending on age of engine. on the bellhousing flange behind the left hand head or on the block face by the dipstick. The body colour number is on a sticky label on the inner wing in the engine bay, most likely long gone now.
I have done now the wiper motor where connectors where broken by rust.
Have set in brass contacts, and now it work fine again, however the over female connector is
also damaged, the pins are rusted and stuck. So need work here or replacement, but think these
connector pin can be replaced.
By the way, the rover was 42 years in barn.
regards
Have set in brass contacts, and now it work fine again, however the over female connector is
also damaged, the pins are rusted and stuck. So need work here or replacement, but think these
connector pin can be replaced.
By the way, the rover was 42 years in barn.
regards
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People like pics here so here these are. do not forget to answer the previous question about the steer box, this one will not remove
it is quite stuck.
I have now also done, the electronic voltage regulator, did draw original and made it modern with a mosfet. I have made a new circuit myself and put it in the old housing. I have done the vacuum pot on ignition who was leaky, set in a new membrane.
and did Paint some parts like radiator with heat resistant paint. and parts for break/clutch cylinder.
Bit by Bit I get done with that.
it is quite stuck.
I have now also done, the electronic voltage regulator, did draw original and made it modern with a mosfet. I have made a new circuit myself and put it in the old housing. I have done the vacuum pot on ignition who was leaky, set in a new membrane.
and did Paint some parts like radiator with heat resistant paint. and parts for break/clutch cylinder.
Bit by Bit I get done with that.
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![DSCN5511[1].JPG](/data/attachments/24/24459-c58ece6dc3259a59e44f34257b8f61ee.jpg)
![WP_20231228_16_19_28_Pro[1].jpg](/data/attachments/24/24465-b2b49d51b8e1e88b1ac57a5625d2f066.jpg)
cobraboy
Well-Known Member
If your steering box is bad I have a good LHD MANUAL steering box here that I would ship over.
DavidWalker
Member
That fan is missing a blade and will be unbalanced. You need to remove the fan blade that doesn't have an opposing partner, to bring it into balance. The fan works fine with just four blades, (or two pairs of blades). All my P6s only had four. (Or two pairs). But if you don't think it's enough add another pair in place of the broken one, (to give six blades/ three pairs) Running an unbalanced fan will quickly wear out the bearing on the water pump - this is what the fan is bolted too.
Not that it matters but all P6 fans were red originally.
I have a manual steering box here, but I think these is from a 2200 or 2000TC mine rover is also right steered.
The power steer is not badly damaged, just a part is damaged outside where steer column is connected.
But thanks for the offer.
I had a yellow color who was wear out completely so I did repaint it the same color. The fan do not miss any blade, it is asymmetric.
I have now ready the pic controlled ignition module. just need a pic 16F88 to program it ordered but stores are closed.
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![DSCN5660[1].JPG](/data/attachments/24/24467-52bd5e10ef89f4baafd1e761960f4df1.jpg)
Maybe re4place it by a electrical fan is better, I did read the cooling is not that good for
the 3500 cars.
DavidWalker
Member
Oh, ok, that's a new one on me.