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No need for a valve protection additive, your P6 already has hardened seats and valves. You only need the higher octane.

No need for a valve protection additive, your P6 already has hardened seats and valves. You only need the higher octane.

Or use a timing light. They're pretty cheap to buy but get one with an inductive pickup and a nice bright xenon bulb.

P6s don't need lead for wear protection but they do need the octane it provides. Detune by 2 degrees to 4 degrees BTDC and use Shell Optimax or BP Ultimate. It'll be fine. Or detune to 0 degrees BTDC and use ordinary unleaded.

Thanks for that, Bennet.

BB, could you please give some contact details for ASCAR in Sheffield as I need an exhaust for my 3500S soon and I was thinking of a stainless one. BTW, does anyone know if P D Gough supply and fit if you go to them? Cheers nick

If it had it's oil changed at the recommended intervals the mileage wouldn't worry me. All those motorway miles do no harm.

If it had it's oil changed at the recommended intervals the mileage wouldn't worry me. All those motorway miles do no harm.

I had a similar problem many years ago with a 2000. Battery going flat yet everthing appearing ok. I finally traced it to the wiring loom having chafed through. A bundle of wiring goes from back to front along the inside of the car under the carpet by the sill. This then goes through a hole in a...

That's a brilliant tip for steering wheel removal, Nick. Thanks

The early Range Rover was sold in the USA and had to be ok with unleaded. The part numbers for the valve seats etc. is the same as for UK V8s so they're fine with unleaded. I think people confuse the need for the octane rating of leaded with the wear protection of the lead. You need the former...

Ordinary unleaded is fine if you retard the ignition to 0 degrees. If you want to keep the timing nearer to 6 degrees BTDC then you'll need optimax or superunleaded. Just listen for pinking and retard as necessary. Valve recession is not an issue with this engine despite stories you may hear.

I'd recommend 30-50% all year round, changed every two years. It'll still not freeze after 2 years (at least glycol won't) but the corrosion inhibitors will be getting low by then.

They'll fit ok but the recline lever will be on the wrong side and you'll do yourself a mischief when you get in and out. It is possible to strip down the seats and I think (not absolutely sure, anyone know?) that the squabs and backs are interchangeable i.e. not handed. I took a seat apart a...

It could be an air leak on the inlet side somewhere. Try spraying wd40 or trickling thin oil around the inlet manifold and carbs. If there is a leak the oil should be sucked in an you'll see smoke in the exhaust. Alternatively, the 'poff' might be due to a worn or sticking valve. Does the...

It could be an air leak on the inlet side somewhere. Try spraying wd40 or trickling thin oil around the inlet manifold and carbs. If there is a leak the oil should be sucked in an you'll see smoke in the exhaust. Alternatively, the 'poff' might be due to a worn or sticking valve. Does the...

Mine is an electric pump mounted at the rear with the standard SUs fitted. I think the return is blocked off but I'm not 100% sure as the pump was fitted when I bought the car.

I've been jacking P6's under the front crossmember for over 20 years, no problem so far!

Fully agree with you, BB. Unleaded is fine if you retard the ignition or use optimax or superunleaded.

The only surefire way I know is to fit an electric fuel pump. I must be lucky, none of the V8s I've ever owned have suffered from it.

I use any old car battery lying around the garage. The strobe doesn't need much power so even a knackered battery will do. Otherwise any live feed and earth will do but I don't like the idea of leads lying all over a running engine plus I bet the leads on the strobe wouldn't be long enough.

I use a 15/50 oil in my 3500S. A bit thinner when cold (good) but the same when hot as a 20/50. The oil pressure gauges aren't that accurate so unless you temporarily attach a decent gauge, you'll never know. If it sounds fine, I wouldn't worry. If it is a bit low, what would you do? As for...

I have had this on two 2000 P6's. Unbolt the carb and inside the exposed bit of the inlet manifold you'l find a metal tube which is supposed to either be an interference fit or glued in. This comes loose and give that annoying rattle. Solution is to stick it back in position with a little...

I have had this on two 2000 P6's. Unbolt the carb and inside the exposed bit of the inlet manifold you'l find a metal tube which is supposed to either be an interference fit or glued in. This comes loose and give that annoying rattle. Solution is to stick it back in position with a little...

Certainly sounds like bores/rings to me. How old is the rebuild? Perhaps the bores weren't properly honed or the rings installed incorrectly. Try a dry then wet compression test.