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Got it. So still on plan 'a' .. get the bits out, putting it back together with a new case (and some new bolts) and seeing how it works. Thanks

Limited garage time means slow progress but this isn't the bolts coming undone but they have sheered off. Any ideas why that would that happen?

That sounds like a plan. Thank you for the advice.

Not really much (any) debris that I can see. I'll get a pic of the inside of the cover in a bit

Quite a few of the other tab washers look like they have 'opened up' or weren't bent over at some stage. I've had the car 23 years and no one has been inside the diff in that time. I have no experience with differentials. Does this look like I should change the diff for an unknown second hand...

oh.

Thank you Harvey. I'd rather not fit a random second hand diff (even though mine clonks a bit) so I'll do as you advise.

Oh dear. I don't think the backlash matters now. I was investigating a big oil leak and found 2 U/Js were very stiff / seized and I guess that's set up vibration that has cracked the diff case.

Thanks for confirming backlash is ok. I'll contact you about U/Js.

Hi, I've just taken the driveshafts out of my 3500 (I'm going to changing the U/Js) and I'm surprised that I can turn the inner driveshaft about 10mm before the other one begins to move. This feels like a lot of backlash in the diff and it clonks. Is this a normal amount of 'slop'? Thanks. James.

I've been thinking about what Ron said about the straight impeller pumps working fine and that there must be something else wrong. Looking carefully at the first picture I can see that the impeller is pushed much farther on to the drive shaft on the new pump. I've taken a second picture to make...

Problem is solved. As a temporary measure I've re-fitted the old pump again and cooling is back to normal again. The symptoms were caused by poor flow. I did discuss the straight impeller pump with 2 mechanical engineers at work who both said it would be much less efficient than the original...

Thanks for the advice. Yes, it is a uk car. Will get thermostat and put it back together evenings next week.

Ok, thanks both for the advice on bleeding the system. Sounds like I should try another thermostat and give it another go.

First time just put coolant in top of radiator, ran up to temperature at fast idle. Topped up as necessary. Thought I might have air lock so next fill did the same but also took a heater hose off to check. Was coolant there as well. After discussing with Pilkie, put it on ramps for last fill...

Thinking more about your question, Harvey, I've overhauled the carbs and its idling really well now so I've slowed the idle down to about 550 rpm (help the gearbox a bit).

Thank you both for quick responses. It did get hot when left idling for a while but not all the way back into the red. The new thermostat did have the hole in it (I put at the top) and a jiggle pin.

I've replaced the water pump (following joys of snapping 2 bolts, drilling out and cleaning threads and snapping tap off then grinding tap out and helicoiling) and the car now warms up at a normal rate but keeps getting hotter until its just in the red. Then the thermostat opens and it cools to...

Hi Harvey, thanks for the offer of a replacement tube but I'll take your earlier advice and leave them out. James.

Thanks.

Hi, I've had to remove the carburettors due to petrol leak. The tube between the float chamber and the jet has failed on one side. I found the tube (pictured) in place on one side and broken on the other. On the broken side the 2 bits were fairly well blocking the inlet to the manifold so it...