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That does seem more likely.

Well, removing the alarm wire from the negative side of the coil saw the car start straight away. Tested this by putting the wire back on, and predictably it did not start. Really annoying that it took a couple of hours of faffing about to fix it, and no idea what triggered it. BTW, if I were...

I think you just need to cover the blue light and disable the two tones. I suppose the mileage is verified, but the driver's seat doesn't say 1,600 miles to me. I once bought a Piaggio scooter from the Met, I can't recall exactly, but I think it only had around 40 miles on it (still had some of...

Well, I put a new condenser on it, and that didn't seem to make a difference… but… Looking at the coil again I noticed there was another wire on the negative side, so I took that off (as well as the one to the distributor), and then I had 12v on the negative side of the coil (previously I'd had...

I was happily driving my 2200SC yesterday, when the engine suddenly stopped. Ended-up having it recovered home. Having looked at it now, it seems I have no spark (first check at the roadside was for fuel delivery, and that all seemed fine). There was no missfiring or anything, and no other...

Ok, so it looks like the easiest method is to get some special nuts… if anyone has them… but still not clear if the alloys will fit anyway – what am I looking for on the trailing arms that will confirm one way or the other. As an aside, are the standard nuts a mix of metric a/f and imperial...

So I need a set of wheels and a matching set of wheel nuts? I can see a couple of sets on eBay, but one set for Vandenplas and the other for Vitesse - just for different style wheels?

Do the SD1 alloys fit four cylinder P6s, specifically a 1975 2200SC? Thanks

Sorry, I meant that I'd put the washer in the wrong way round, ie upside down (or something). Pretty sure I have put the tap back together correctly (apart from this issue with the washer), otherwise the grub screw wouldn't go in and the tap wouldn't "stop" in the correct places.

Yes, indeed. I'll have another look at it. Perhaps the washer did come off the screw, and I've put it back the wrong way around (if that's possible).

There was a little black washer - I didn't really notice what type it was – I think it did not detatch from the screw, so I put it back in with the screw.

Well, perhaps it is the float - gauge doesn't move at all. Not sure I’ve filled it up, but there certainly has been at least the reserve plus 5-6 gallons. As above, when I short the sender power to earth the gauge goes up as far as it can. Oh, I did have a question about the reserve tap. When...

I ended-up going down to WINS to get the o-ring. Asked them about the sender, and they said Wadhams was the only supplier. How likely is it that the problem is just a faulty float? Perhaps I'll buy a Wadhams unit, then see if I can repair the original - so at least I'll have a spare in the...

My fuel gauge is not working. I have jacked the car up and checked the wires/connections to the tank, and they all seem ok. Checked the power-in cable with a voltmeter and this shows up to about 11v (seems to float up and down for some reason). Plugged the power-in connector on to the power-out...

Just to conclude: I bought the Wadhams kit, but sent it back, because it seems to require that you remove much of the back of the light fitting. So, I bought one of the Holdens replacement bulb holders. This turned out to be a bit of a job because the chrome light fitting had corrosion issues...

Well, just to tie up the thread, seemingly changing the float (and setting it a little lower) fixed the problem.

Yes, all the parts have ben replaced: float, needle valve, valve seat, jet, jet seal, float chamber seal… We'll just have to see if it now stops the leak. There is no dirt, and I am pretty sure there are no cracks.

Fortunately I have all the parts, except the nuts - but didn't know until recently that the nuts were required.

Thanks! I realised how it all fits together when I saw a photo of it. I'd previously spent ages trying to get the hook/rods through the holes in the battery cover, while still attached to the retaining flanges - absolutely impossible!

After some period of trying to get the battery box knobs to fit, with the hooks appropriately attached, I saw a photo that shows that there should be some nuts that hold down the battery clamp – so, in all probability it is possible to attach the hooks and knobs and hold down the battery box...

And you were very helpful, thank you.

Right, well, no real progress. I ordered the Wadhams kit, but unless I have it competely wrong, it seems to require that you cut off the "bumps"/recesses on the back of the chrome housing, in order to fit the stainless plate (I thought it was a gasket in the photos) that would now hold the...

I'm one of those people that likes to fix things if I can, rather than replace them, so I am trying to work out how to fix it, and off the eBay if I fail…

Yes, it is Viton tipped (can you buy solid brass ones anymore?). I have just fitted the new float, I set it to cut in a little earlier than the manual suggests - so perhaps this will cure it. I've driven it a couple of miles down the road and back, and no leaks so far… But that's how it was...

Just out of interest: Wikipedia says the side markers on NADA cars are reflectors. Is that correct? I thought that from 1968 the USA required lit side markers.