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I'll get a photo of it for you so you can see my setup.

I hooked it up via a stiff spring onto the throttle cable/butterfly actuator and seems to work ok. Still needs a stall converter though as it really fights to drive off on idle at the traffic lights. Really have to mash the brake pedal so it doesnt drive away.

Is there a specific amount it should be set up at? ive pulled it out and it kinda "locks" at a point , then pulls past that point.

Actually got it rego'd and about to leave for the gemini nationals at port stephens near newcastle in NSW.

kickdown cable isnt connected , its the 3500 engine. Runs the 4hp-22 box from a beemer. Excess heat isnt an issue , i have a decent tranny cooler , and can easily upgrade to an even larger one if needed. Its a 4 bolt , factory converter frm an 84 model. Its not bolted straight to the flex plate...

trying to hunt one down that will stall to 2500rpm as my current take-off is quite sluggish

Just wondering if the range rover torque converter is the same through the range , ie size and stall capability

thanks for that , when i pull it , it gets to a point where it goes really hard , then after that its free again , so about 3/4 throttle it seems to "catch" , then click and you canot help but with the force to mash the loud pedal harder witout trying... does this just mean its adjusted too far?

In my original phot in post 1 , whats the cale for? I thought it was for gear knockdown when you gas it , but now im hearing its for Park gear lock or something?

New reply to old thread , but can you tell me if the auto cooler lines have a connector with a barbed fitting at all? My box has no cooler lines and cant test drive it without them. Lines and cooler obviously isnt an issue , just the fittings are.

Cars running , module in dizzy was dead

Cheers. May have found one on nthside of brissy through a guy who appears to wreck them.

Found the issue. Stumbled onto an electronic dizzy for the original motor , and attached to it was a bosch module. Connected the whole lot up to original 4 cyl dizzy and got spark , well , my body did!! d/c the dizzy and plugged the rover one in and nothing. Changed back to 4 cyl dizzy and...

Did an ohms test yesterday , it showed open circuit. Should i be testing with the lobe pointing at the pickup? Cap and all contacts are in servicable condition. Had a sparky look at dizzy and he said it is ok.

Really getting desperate now. I have reconncted the opriginal coil and dizzy , and the coil is throwing a fat spark. Can anyone tell me if the dizzy should be reading any ohms , as when i connect up a multi meter it reads as an open circuit. I need to know if the dizzy is faulty or the new module.

I had power to + on coil and everything that needed earthing was earthed. when the 3 on the block was earthed with an LED test light , it would spark m but with dizzy spinning it wouldnt.

Having an issue where i have no spark. I bought a 4 pin mmodule and have wired it up , but havent got any spark. Have attached some photos hoping they help.

Speedo issue sorted... kinda.. just need to TIG it into place and test , then fully weld..

Stilsens and a large pipe hanging off them... Its off , had to trim down the oil cap as it was hitting the splash tray , also cleaned it in the ultrasonic cleaner and it did an ok job of it.

Starter motor isnt an issue anymore , i have moved the steering column and i have sufficient clearance now.

Found the gemini thermostat cover is 1mm out , so bargain there... , air cleaner is hitting on the carby , so i'll have to drill a hole and make a "bump" in the mounting plate to keep it sealed. Looks like i might move the steering column over and leave the starter where it is , will be easier...

cheers for that. im trying to hunt a starter that has the solenoid pointing upwards towards the engine block, and shorter in length so the extractors i have to have fabricated can fit better.

1984 range rover engine. I shouldve used the SD1 , or a leyland P76 engine and gearbox , but have to utilize what i already have.

Just to keep the thread updated , we managed to get it onto the lathe and machined down the required amount. The studs were removed ( obviously ) and it was found they were a metric thread , so i used some 2nd hand hex head bolts ( off our Bock air conditioning compressors ) to hold the new...