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Hi, I'm having some starting issues. And as the weather here has now reached sub-zero temperatures.. it's become a real problem. I already replaced the battery and starting with jump leads makes no difference, so it's my guess the starter motor is at fault. My p6 is fitted with a V8 efi from a...

Thanks for the heads-up everyone, I'll start soaking the bolts as soon as I get home from work. It'll be several days before I can get around to it, so maybe it will help. :) I really hope they come undone nicely.. :shock:

Thanks everyone, I have ordered a pump and a set of bolts. Let's hope I get her back on the road swiftly, I'm currently using my girlfriend's '78 saab 99, which is fun for a change... but I miss that V8. :P

This kit seems to be made specifically for the job. Which implies there is a difference. Amazing how something so simple can become a daunting task! :roll:

Do you know if the required bolts are the same if you have an SD1 engine? I believe the timing cover is different..

Thanks!

The waterpump on my p6 started leaking, the shaft seal seems to be failing and there is a lot of play in the shaft. Needless to say I need a new pump, but since my car is fitted with an SD1 engine I need to make sure I get the right one. I believe in order to fit a SD1 engine in a P6 the...

I used ceramic grease, which I was told doesn't harm rubber.

Thanks, I have heard that copper grease is harmful to rubber components. There is no risk of it damaging the dust-seals on the pistons?

I've been refurbishing my brakes, and currently I'm rebuilding the front calipers. Starting to look good! :D But I'm not sure where the copper grease should be applied, is it just between the pads and the shims? Or also on the back of the shims at the piston side?

I'll be looking out for a replacement shaft then, are the propshafts on the 2000, 2200, 3500 automatics the same? Or do I specifically need a 3500 shaft?

That's good to know, should be easy to source then. :) I would still like to make sure the alignment is correct though, any idea how to go about that?

Hi everyone, I have been hunting down the vibrations in my drivetrain, so far I have gotten my wheels balanced, refurbished the half shafts and fitted new u-joints to them (old ones were pretty stiff and rusted), changed the oil in the diff, overhauled the rear hubs (new wheel bearings)...

But if you don't mill out the entire length of the original cylinder you should have an almost seamless transition from the bearing race to the original cylinder wall. This way there is no gap to speak of, so I don't think the sleeve would be any more likely to be driven out than when running...

But the bottom part of the piston is tapered to allow the brake fluid to enter, so the bottom bit isn't used for guiding the piston I think. I'll measure it when I have the time to see how much of the cilinder wall can be maintained without it causing problems for the piston.

You mean the holes for the brake fluid to flow through? I don't think you need to resleeve the full depth of the cilinder, only the length that the piston seal moves along. So you could fit the ring without having to alter it (apart from grinding it to the right length that is).

Well, the studs came out. So now it's time to get them resleeved, I want to get it done locally so I approached an engineer I know. We talked about the stainless steel sleeves that are usually applied and he advised against it, saying the thermal expansion of stainless steel and and the steel of...

Sorry for kicking this topic, but I was wondering which loctite you ended up using on the splines. AVV 086 seems to be very hard to come by, I contacted Loctite to ask what they advise as an alternative. They told me to use Loctite 638, although this seems the right product based on this...

I figured as much, but I couldn't budge them. Guess they need a bit more "persuading" :P

I'm refurbishing a set of rear calipers and I want to get them resleeved. But can't seem to remove the studs from the caliper, how should I go about removing them? The manual doesn't tell either, doesn't even list them as separate parts. p.s. I want to give them a good clean too, but since they...

Does anyone know if the wheel trim for a Triumph Stag can be fitted to a Rover p6 steel wheel? They are both BL and 14". It seems like a affordable way to get the period look.

I wish I could pick them up, but I'm not located in Britain.

They are bespoke. I did some searching on the web to find out what wheels these are, as I'm looking for a alternative for the original rostyles. The image came from http://www.jensen-sales.com/general-gallery/ and on there the imbedded image caption says; "Bespoke 17″ JIA alloys to replace...

My car has been fitted with SD1 wheels ever since I got it, but I would like to go for a more period look so I have been looking for a set of rostyle wheels for my p6 3500S. I have had no luck finding them, so now I'm looking for alternatives. I'm very curious if anyone here tried fitting 14"...

Thanks for the suggestion. Have you tried these yourself? I enquired about them but it seems the shaft diameter on a TR6 is roughly 40mm, on a P6 it's roughly 50mm. Stretching the gaiter to get it over the yoke will be tricky, won't a 10mm smaller diameter make it nearly impossible? This is...