3 Bond Gasket sealers

K

Keith Coman

New Member
I am reliably informed that these products are what Toyota use in production and that Toyota brand sealants sold and used by its dealers are the same products retailing at twice the price.

3 Bond Grey is the one to use - it will even make classic British motorcycles oil tight. It's not cheap, but the tube is generous and provided its kept air tight and stored out in a cool place it will not "go off" or cure after opening like silicone sealants do resulting in the all too familiar experience of waste and needless disposal of a partially used package.

http://www.threebond.com

I have used this product with great success on a P6 2000 sump [not a drip in ten years] and on an especially troublesome Mazda rocker cover. The product must be used strictly as instructed to achieve the best results.
 
Two quick addenda to this topic.

1.
Common or garden contact adhesive [the khaki/beige coloured stuff you can buy in tubes or small tins produced by makers such as Bostik, Henkel and CRC] makes a brilliant gasket sealer when used in conjunction with a paper gasket. I have used this product with great success for 30+ years on paper gaskets* for bolting up such things as engine sumps, water pumps, thermostat housings, carb-to-manifolds, mechanical petrol pumps and the piece d'resistance, a Series 2 Land-Rover transfer box cover plate. A water pump gasket on the P4 90 is a watertight today as it was when it went on with the help of Mr Bostik in 1979. Side benefits are low-cost, easy availability, really fast bonding, no wastage like silicone products, no risk of run off into the engine oil system like silicone, and assemblies come apart very easily should this be necessary down the track. This type of glue is resistant to engine block heat, radiator system water, and engine and transmission oils.

Method: Clean all metal surfaces [brake cleaner, thinners or petrol]. Apply contact adhesive liberally to one metal surface. Put on paper gasket straight away [I've never bothered to wait for the glue to tack off - it's pretty volatile anyway] pressing down with fingers to get the air bubbles out. Smear contact adhesive to outside of the gasket or the other metal surface - which ever is most convenient. [Make sure you get glue all around any studs to avoid later leaks.] Place up the metal object and bolt down immediately. Ideally you'll see little bubbles of glue emerge around the edge as the bolts snug up - don't go overboard with the tightening. Let it settle for 10 minutes then put it to work.

* NB - this adhesive works best with gasket paper. Since it's fairly thin and runny, I've never used it with cork, metal or plastic gaskets.

2.
Gaskets for the applications mentioned in [1] above can be made on a bespoke basis using gasket paper that can be obtained from motor spares dealers. All that's needed is a fine clutch pencil, sharp-sharp carpet knife, pair of scissors and some patience. Use the old gasket or the assembly mating surface as a template which you mark out using the pencil. If no gasket is available as a template, simply cut out a piece of gasket paper big enough to fit and then using a grubby finger rub the gasket paper hard enough to pick up an impression. Cut out the new gasket using scissors and carpet knife. Cutting out small bolt and bleed holes takes patience unless you have a suitable punch but it can be done with the carpet knife. [A bit academic for those in Britain, but an excellent and cheap-as-chips hole punch is a fired rifle cartridge - 7.62mm will do most of the time. It will soon collapse under the hammer blows, but a decent bag of them under the bench will see you right for years.]
 
If you have a gasket that needs to be removed and replaced regularly for any reason, just rub it with a thin coat f grease before you fit it and it will come off clean when you pull the part off.
 
Keith Coman said:
I am reliably informed that these products are what Toyota use in production and that Toyota brand sealants sold and used by its dealers are the same products retailing at twice the price.

3 Bond Grey is the one to use - it will even make classic British motorcycles oil tight. It's not cheap, but the tube is generous and provided its kept air tight and stored out in a cool place it will not "go off" or cure after opening like silicone sealants do resulting in the all too familiar experience of waste and needless disposal of a partially used package.

http://www.threebond.com

I have used this product with great success on a P6 2000 sump [not a drip in ten years] and on an especially troublesome Mazda rocker cover. The product must be used strictly as instructed to achieve the best results.
Click to expand...

that looks to be the same stuff as we used to use on the WRC sumps and they hardly ever leaked (aluminium block, carbon composite sump designed to deform on impact, no gasket just the sealant.... you needed a block and mallet to get the thing off when you had to!
 
When we are talking about sealer and glue; what is the best glue for gluing new rubber seal (where one have to cut at an angle and glue back together) I have tried a special locktite glue meant for o-rings, but that was not working well with my new rubber seals from Rover Classics.
regards, Barten
 
Barten said:
When we are talking about sealer and glue; what is the best glue for gluing new rubber seal (where one have to cut at an angle and glue back together) I have tried a special locktite glue meant for o-rings, but that was not working well with my new rubber seals from Rover Classics.
regards, Barten
Click to expand...

Use the Loctite 480 rubber toughened or Loctite 406
 
It is Locktite 406 I have tried. Does not seem to bond very much. I have tried washing the rubber in thinner, and rubbing it as well.
I'll see if I can get hold of the 480 then.
regards, BArten
 
do you mean like an o-ring where you have cut it and then reformed a loop? i used to just use decent quality (wurth) superglue and never had any problems
 
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