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thamesroverp6

thamesroverp6

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Hi there again, can someone tell me please if i spray "CRC disc quiet" to the pads can i omit the shims that
sit between the piston and pad?
There is only one damping shim per caliper anyway?
My girlfriend and i fitted the rubbers and new pistons (from Wins Int.) last night and tonight and i cant wait to jump on them soon, but i have the de dion tube to clean and refit yet, so have to wait a bit longer
 
There should be two shims. They are fairly essential, because they angle the pads just a bit so the pads "lay down" on the disk rather than touch evenly.

But a thick layer of damping compound might work. Worth a shot, as the worse that happens is they squeal and you have to find shims and install them.

Yours
Vern
 
I use coppa slip only after first filing/ removing the thick black paint on the edges of pad which slides on caliper.
Also carefully use file on the caliper its self to remove the build up of rust, then try pad first for any tightness in caliper.
All the new cars manufacturers dont use any form of lube on pads/sliders ( we always do )
Clive.
 
clive P62 said:
I use coppa slip only after first filing/ removing the thick black paint on the edges of pad which slides on caliper.
Also carefully use file on the caliper its self to remove the build up of rust, then try pad first for any tightness in caliper.
All the new cars manufacturers dont use any form of lube on pads/sliders ( we always do )
Clive.
Click to expand...
Good tip on the filing trick, thanks!
I was taught the CoppaSlip trick as an Apprentice at an MB Dealer. The older Mercs used to squeal a LOT, even with anti-squeal pads..
 
I've been converted to using ceramic brake compounds over copper based products. Mintex do one called Ceratec, it's really thick and gel like and lasts longer in use.
Jim
 
There are plus and minus points for using and not using.
Using.....pads slide freely, helps to reduce pads from rusting/sticking in caliper and squeaking.
Not using...... as pads wear the brake dust makes the brake paste congeal and dry out and can lead to more sticking.
Have seen it on some cars at work, but that said i would and do use brake paste.
On a funny or not so funny note, many moons ago my mate used coppa slip for his brake squeal, told me after he used it brakes seemed not so good but at last they stopped squeaking!
Had a quick look,
Twit had put the paste on the material instead of the metal backing.:rolleyes:
Clive.
 
all back together and bled, de dion tube with new seals back in, one sore and swollen finger,after jamming between the tyre and the hub somehere, and a test drive,all ok.
maybe they could do with another bleeding, but work better than being on all the time.
Is there a way of bleeding the brakes?
I just open the bleed nipple depress the brake pedal and tighten the nipple then release the pedal and repeat process a few times.
Is this correct?
 
Hi,
Once you have got a brake pedal that is hard i get an assistant to pump pedal 3 times so system is under pressure, hold foot on
pedal then release bleed nipple so pedal goes to floor,re tighten nipple, take foot off and repeat until bleed bleed pipe is clear of bubbles.
Clive.
 
clive P62 said:
On a funny or not so funny note, many moons ago my mate used coppa slip for his brake squeal, told me after he used it brakes seemed not so good but at last they stopped squeaking!
Had a quick look,
Twit had put the paste on the material instead of the metal backing.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Reminds me of a elderly couple that had a Volvo 164 that we serviced. They lived around the corner, and 99% of their driving consisted of about a half mile to the village centre and back, a couple or three times a week. Between never going more than 20 miles an hour and commencing braking when the stop signs were still a couple hundred yards away, the car always had a terrible pad squeal.

My boss's solution was to have them always drop by on their way to the village, one of us would run out and squirt a bit of WD40 on the front rotors and send them off to shopping. The couple would never think about going any further without having us check over the car "just to be sure", so it was a win-win situation, as we'd just take the car for a good run and do a bunch of hard braking to clean the glaze off the pads when that happened.

Yours
Vern
 
Reminds me of the 63 Morris Minor my mum used to poodle about in - same 2 miles to the shops and back , three times a week .Never went over 20mph.
Ran like a Bradford on one cylinder.
The local agent always had trouble tuning it .
Someone said take it for a strop down the motorway in 3rd gear and high rev the shit out of it for 20 miles.
Shoved a bottle of Barhdol down the carb and went like a hoon for the said 20 miles .
Top tune . Ran beautiful after that .
There you go , Rover boys . Barhdol , rev the bastard - top tune.
 
I just had to have my saab towed tonight to my mums, now to diagnose why it died.
Up side i get to drive the rover as my daily till fixed.
 
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