Engine/head compatibility

hermione149 said:
I am in the process of rebuilding a 2000sc engine that had a 2200tc head fitted and I can tell you that the valves do indeed foul the top of the bore by a few thou,
There is also evidence around the edges of the valves that contact has occurred,when the car got to me you could hear it ticking but I was assured that the valve clearances were within tolerance,when I took the head of I discovered on the edge of each bore a strange semi circular chamfered mark right next to the inlet valve,
Could be why Rover marked the 2200 heads with 2.2 :idea: :LOL:
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Thanks for that, it's saved me the touble, but this bloke.... v

The Rovering Member said:
Ah, so you are in the market for a reasonably priced 2000 block then? :wink:
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....will get a right sulk on now...... :LOL:

For some reason he always tries to take me for a few quid when I have explained many times that all transactions have to have all the cash coming my way.... :LOL:
 
harveyp6 said:
Thanks for that, it's saved me the touble, but this bloke.... v

The Rovering Member said:
Ah, so you are in the market for a reasonably priced 2000 block then? :wink:
Click to expand...

....will get a right sulk on now...... :LOL:

For some reason he always tries to take me for a few quid when I have explained many times that all transactions have to have all the cash coming my way.... :LOL:
Click to expand...

He's like a monetary diode. :roll:
But it's cash one way & a wealth of Rover experience at my disposal (after 10am), so I'm more than happy with the deal. :LOL:
 
redrover said:
If you don't have a good enough fuel, the engine will suffer damaging pinking under moderate load, as the fuel ignites automatically under compression before the spark plug fires
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This is not totally correct. While autoignition can happen, most commonly detonation is the result of the the flame front moving extremely rapidly after the spark plug fires and the entire mixture essential exploding at once. As the plug fires well before TDC, the result is peak pressure comes before the piston is at TDC. Leaded gas increased the effective octane rating because the lead compound increased the "opacity" of the mixture to heat, slowing the flame front.

Yours
Vern
 
Well people, for a number of reasons...the final decision is to use a 2000SC block and mate it straight onto my 2000TC head. I could just put the sc engine is as a whole, but my car is a 2000TC and I want to keep it that way really.

What happened with the old one....? Well, after buying a nice car that I hoped to spend minimal cash on, I had to spend just shy of £450 to have some bits done....carbs re built, handbrake assembly re built, side plate replaced, engine flush, a couple of heater hoses and a nice tune up......

Took it for a nice trip to the coast on a sunny day with the mrs....no kids...lush....then it lost some power (didn't break down - a point I remind the Mrs of - although the comment I said was, "would you prefer to break down on the A14 or on country roads?") anyway - long story short - piston rings gone on one cylinder...

On inspection the cylinders are really worn with lots of spade around them....option - full re-bore and block reconstruction, or new engine for £100 and swop the heads over....available engine is a SC hence this thread.....so if anyone want a 2000TC block that needs a rebuild, then it will be available.

Yes - I'm paying a man to do this, and the previously bottomless pit of cash has now bottomed out.

I didn't think it would be hassle free motoring but I was not expecting a new engine would be needed.!

Previous owner had the head off for a rebuild and I think just saw the state of the piston play, bolted it together to GED rid of it to some mug....me....such is life. Still enjoy driving it.

Thanks all for the interest and help.
 
Fatheroftwins said:
Well people, for a number of reasons...the final decision is to use a 2000SC block and mate it straight onto my 2000TC head. I could just put the sc engine is as a whole, but my car is a 2000TC and I want to keep it that way really..
Click to expand...

Your tc head will fit the sc block,no probs

Just be aware that if the donor engine is from an automatic the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft needs changing.
 
What a mission....so, 2000sc block mated to the 2000tc head.

Change of carb needles to account for low compression and can either get good tick over but poor revs, or the opposite.
Not sure how to resolve this one? My man is going to try some 2200 tc carbs......
 
2200 TC carbs (HIF6's) will offer a number of considerable benefits, not least improved low end torque. The standard needles (BBX) are too rich in the mid range, but I have found BDQ to work reasonably well with a meaningful ignition curve in this setup. They could do with a little more richness around stations 3-5, but it doesn't doesn't pink and has considerable go at most revs about 1700rpm.

If you got down that route, you will essentially have the same engine as mine - a 9:1 compression 1978cc block with a 2000 TC head and 2200 TC HIF6 carbs. I only know of two others with that setup - Demetris and Kev Hermione149, but it's a very effective and simple way to build a usable 2000 TC with a flexible, broad torque band.
 
Hi there - final question....

I have the low compression 1978cc block, 1978 tc head, and 2200 hif6 carbs wih bdk needles.

Unleaded on its own or still with additive??!!

Views/definitive answer if possible please.
 
You'll still need an additive if you're not changing the seats for hardened types.

BDK is really quite rich, especially for the 2000. BBX is the standard for 2200 TC's, and even that is a touch rich for the 2000 (gives a good punch though!). BDQ will run a little bit leaner, but you always have a flat spot around stations 2-4, which causes a momentary hesitation at high vacuum (ie initial pick-up). I'd go for BBS, BBY, BCB - that sort of region. Have a play and see what works for you. Are you remapping your dizzy to suit unleaded while you're at it? It's a good move if you're going this far as it'll allow the engine to gain and lose revs properly, allowing you to get the full value out of the needles, and a broad, uniform power curve.

This tool is invaluable for showing you the differences.
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

Michael
 
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