Bert Turnbull
New Member
Can anyone advise me of the bearing I’d numbers for both inner and outer fronts on a Rover p6. Preferably SKF or TIMKIN, thanks, Bert Turnbull Wanaka, New Zealand.
Front wheel bearings
- Thread starter Bert Turnbull
- Start date
I asked the same question a while ago and got this from a chap in Australia :-
"By the looks of the grease escaping your bearings were running hot, caused by wrong type of grease or incorrect bearing end float (ie. Hub nut too tight) or over packed with too much grease in the hub. The grease in your bearings looks a bit black?? Which indicates overheating, what kind/colour of grease did you use??
I used Timken bearings when I did mine last, the inner bearing is a SET6, LM67048 - LM67010
The outer bearing a SET2, LM11910 - LM11949
The SET6 and SET2 refers to a set of matching inner and outer race, and may also be a common size for trailer/caravan hub bearings.
Grease to use is a LM high temperature bearing grease. The letter designation has changed over the years but it should be an amber coloured grease of which I used Castrol Spheerol HTB2 (here in Oz), (which replaced Castrol HTB). Best check the Castrol UK website for correct UK designation.
Front hub end float (as per my Haynes book) should be 3-5 thou. You should feel this play when the wheel is back on by holding the top and bottom of the tyre and rocking the wheel.
The bearing inner races that fit onto the hub shaft have to be loose So you can fit them on the shaft, hence the shiny marks you see are just from bearing creep and are not usually indicative of worn shaft. And loctite should not be used as the bearing are meant to creep and your hub shafts look OK.
The taper roller inner races should be packed with grease and the hub cavity half filled with grease and pack the hub grease cap."
"By the looks of the grease escaping your bearings were running hot, caused by wrong type of grease or incorrect bearing end float (ie. Hub nut too tight) or over packed with too much grease in the hub. The grease in your bearings looks a bit black?? Which indicates overheating, what kind/colour of grease did you use??
I used Timken bearings when I did mine last, the inner bearing is a SET6, LM67048 - LM67010
The outer bearing a SET2, LM11910 - LM11949
The SET6 and SET2 refers to a set of matching inner and outer race, and may also be a common size for trailer/caravan hub bearings.
Grease to use is a LM high temperature bearing grease. The letter designation has changed over the years but it should be an amber coloured grease of which I used Castrol Spheerol HTB2 (here in Oz), (which replaced Castrol HTB). Best check the Castrol UK website for correct UK designation.
Front hub end float (as per my Haynes book) should be 3-5 thou. You should feel this play when the wheel is back on by holding the top and bottom of the tyre and rocking the wheel.
The bearing inner races that fit onto the hub shaft have to be loose So you can fit them on the shaft, hence the shiny marks you see are just from bearing creep and are not usually indicative of worn shaft. And loctite should not be used as the bearing are meant to creep and your hub shafts look OK.
The taper roller inner races should be packed with grease and the hub cavity half filled with grease and pack the hub grease cap."
jp928
Well-Known Member
The end float is critical for tapered roller bearings. So much so that in earlier models (P3 for sure), the first hub 'nut' was a round piece with 4 holes through it, and the washer that went over it , keyed to the stub axle, had 13 holes, followed by a tab washer and plain nut. The 4-13 hole combination gave a 52 position vernier adjustment, when pinned together. Page 203-4 of the little blue book gives 4-6 thou end float, using a dial indicator.
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The challenge now is sourcing the oil seals, which are hard to come by.
When I replaced my Rover's original bearings in 1989 at 71,095 miles (113,750km) with British made Timkin bearings, the Castrol advisor that I spoke to in Sydney strongly advised me not to use HTB, and that I should use EPL2 instead. I took his advice and have never regretted it. Those bearings with EPL2 have been running for 34 years this year and have covered 355,905 miles (569,450km). They remain smooth and silent.
I tigten the adjustment nut then rock the wheel at the 12 o'clock position. I adjust until there is just a twizzle of end float. My father taught me to do this when I was a child, and I have always done so. Then fit the castellated piece and split pin.
Ron
When I replaced my Rover's original bearings in 1989 at 71,095 miles (113,750km) with British made Timkin bearings, the Castrol advisor that I spoke to in Sydney strongly advised me not to use HTB, and that I should use EPL2 instead. I took his advice and have never regretted it. Those bearings with EPL2 have been running for 34 years this year and have covered 355,905 miles (569,450km). They remain smooth and silent.
I tigten the adjustment nut then rock the wheel at the 12 o'clock position. I adjust until there is just a twizzle of end float. My father taught me to do this when I was a child, and I have always done so. Then fit the castellated piece and split pin.
Ron
Bert Turnbull
New Member
Hi, I have just replaced my front wheel bearings on my P6 S, for those who require info, I was able to get TIMKIN set 2 LM11949/10, set 6 LM67048/10, seal Is BI 43945, hope this is of assistance, Bert Turnbull, Wanaka, NZ.
That's great Bert! Hope they perform well.
Everyone appreciates you sharing the part number information, thanks!
Ron