Got one at last

Adam Birch said:
P6-SI said:
Well good luck with yours when you get it, post some pictures of her when you can. Sounds like a nice one, just need to pick a nice colour, will you stick with original rover colours of opt for a different one ?
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Well my first task will be to get the car on the road so at that stage it will be multicoloured until I have the funds to sort it out. However when I look at the car, what is painted tobacco leaf looks good, it is practically new paint, but where the car was immediately stored afterwards, that quality job has been ruined by deep (but not through) storage marks/scratches. So I am persuaded to go tobacco again, because when the paint job is new, apparently it is full of colour - depending on the light, you can see some hints of green and yellow, which is a nice touch.

P6-SI said:
I am really pleased with her, I hope Adams drop and pick up goes well. Welding seems a must skill to learn, hope I don't have to do to much of that yet, maybe I won't take to many panels off yet
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Glad you are pleased with your purchase, lunar grey is one of my favourite colours. Most of the time it looks light green, but every now and again, depending on the light and how you look at the car, it actually looks gray. Or at least I have found that with my own experiences (I'm not colour blind, honest)!

Welding is a must for older cars - last year I owned a cameron green 2000 auto. It looked rough, but the base unit looked super in a few areas, and ok in others. However when Nick and Duncan looked, they actually felt the sills, and the metal was so squidgy it could have been used as a cake tin - note to self: feel as well as look. Also my mother was asking why I like big cars like P6's rather than smaller ones like morris minors - I then spoke about this to my friend's dad who said I ought to have a degree in welding if I was thinking about a morris minor.

On the note of rusty cars, a friend of mine owns a car called Dogtanien - a 1976 2200sc manual in richelieu red. It is a heavily crashed/welded/neglected car that has done about 105000 miles. It was last crashed, I mean on the road, in 2004 - being stored outside in the elements for 6 years, the beautiful red paint has faided to a matt pink colour along with a few voids where there used to be a substance called steel... At the moment they are waiting for their trusty welder to give a verdict - can it be fixed without needing a straight jacket afterwards - at this stage the answer is more likely to be that the car is going to be used for parts - which is a shame for a car with such a good name.

I say enough of my essay - I really could go on forever.

Cheers, Adam.
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Yeah it's a shame when they come to the end of the road Adam, but better that than banger raced I think. I went and looked at a red series 1 a couple of months ago which was on eBay. It was a one owner car from new and stored since 1982. They wanted about £500 for it but with all the brakes jammed, exhaust rotten, hole in rad and rusty sills it was just to much for me to take on, but it could have been made into a cracker. I don't know who bought her and I think it will probably be stripped. (hope not).
Tobacco leaf is a great choice, you don't see many in that colour so go for it. (will you have a go at spraying yourself).
Like you I am on limited funds so I will have a good look over her this weekend and pick one job at a time. I might start with sorting out the near side font headlight surround, if you look at the first picture I took from the front something looks out of line and I think the bumper is fitted wonky as well, so I have plenty to keep me busy :)

Hope you like your p6 when you collect her, don't forget to post some pictures of her.

Cheers

Si
 
I do suppose most cars have to go at some point, for metal to be used for new cars, but it (as you say) is a sad thing when a car comes to the end of its life. I suppose the benefit of this car Dogtanien being in such a state is if my friend wakes up to realise that it is past it, it would supply my car with a few needed parts - such as a buckskin leather boxpleat interior.

It would be a bit of a shame if that red series 1 you're on about did get stripped, because after what I've seen the series 1 is definitely the rarer car out of all the P6 range.

P6-SI said:
Tobacco leaf is a great choice, you don't see many in that colour so go for it. (will you have a go at spraying yourself).
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Thanks, and about it being one of the less common colours, I have to say I forgot about that. Because of course many people (including myself) don't like the thought of it fading to a "cardboard brown" colour, it has become less common (I wouldn't say rare, IMO a rare P6 colour would be willow green or april yellow). And I suppose I could have a go at painting the car myself - my friends father has a couple of air compressors, and has resprayed a couple of cars (including their own p6 after polishing through the paint), however the jobs weren't professional but at least the knowledge is there.

I will post some pictures when I receive the car this Tuesday, in the "Member's Project's" section.

I hope your car has provided you with a pleasure of ownership, and I also hope to see your car at a few events some day. Nick Dunning took me and my friend up to the Rugeley show, and for most of the time, we were the only lunar grey car there. All of the time we were the only 2200 auto, there was a 2200sc manual and a 2200TC along with a series 1 with a 2200 engine. all the rest were 2000's and v8's.

Any way, before I bore the entire P6 community ;-) I'll be off for now,
Cheers, Adam.
 
I will post some pictures when I receive the car this Tuesday, in the "Member's Project's"



Ok Adam, I will look forward to the pictures and I may see you at a show this year :)

Cheers

Simon
 
I might start with sorting out the near side font headlight surround, if you look at the first picture I took from the front something looks out of line and I think the bumper is fitted wonky as well, so I have plenty to keep me busy :)
Cheers Si
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Hi Si.

The pic is at a slight side on angle so hard to tell,but it looks like the n/s of bonnet is raised slightly,and the n/s bumper is a little low,which could be easily sorted if nothing is actually bent.
Bumper mounts inner and outer can be loosened and realigned,bonnet has 2 rubber bump stop jobs on either front corner and you can adjust them to level it out or maybe the catch needs a little bringing down.
1st priority though is to give it a real good look over at the underside and base unit for rot,suspension for worn joints,bearings,bushed etc and makeing sure the eng and box perform well,do a mini service,plugs,points,rotor,oil/air filters etc,change the oil in eng/box/diff unless you have proof it has been done recently.
Have fun!!

Dave
 
P6-SI said:
Ok Adam, I will look forward to the pictures and I may see you at a show this year
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You may even see me around - it says in 'your own' description you're around Hornchurch, Esssex, which isn't too far from me - about 10 miles away. I'm in the Loughton/Epping area, where I have spotted a fair number of P6's (about 10) driving about or there are 3 I know of that are on peoples drives in a sorry state (including my friends one).

Cheers, Adam.
 
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the advice. I had a good look round her today like you suggested and have good and bad news to report.

Good news. Bodywork is excellent, sills and D post are excellent, inner wings look and feel solid, boot floor is mint.

Bad news. Jumps out of reverse every now and then, engine runs a little lumpy (spark plugs are dark and sooty) I assume it's running rich as it smells petroly. We will give her a service and get a carb service kit and chek timing so I am confident we can sort that out.
When I change gear and come off clutch I can hear a light clunking coming from the rear. My dad thinks it could be propshaft or driveshaft joint wear. I will know a bit more when I can get the car on our ramps and have a better look, but need better weather.
Also noticed that the side plates are well rusty and this concerns me the most as the level in the rad keeps going down, not by much but it looks a bit wet around the plates. I will post some pictures tomorrow under Members Projects so you can have a look, is it a hard job to do, I am still awaiting my Haynes manual from eBay so I cant read up on it at mo.

Cheers

Si
Dave[/quote]
 
Hi Si

Side plates aren't the end of the world, just fiddly working under the carbs. And a good opportunity to flush out the block.

Drive shaft and prop shaft UJ's are a good idea. Just treat them as the cosummables that they are and change the lot. You may be surprised at how bad the ones are that look and feel OK in situ! More likely as the source of the clunk is the rubber mounts at the back of the diff into the bodyshell. It's always the nearside one that goes first (I'll let you work out why - action and reaction is equal and opp....). They are easy to change though, so not scarey.

Gearboxes are not my strong point - I've always fought well shy of them ever since a mate and I had the box of a Cooper 997 apart on the afternoon before a night rally and I spent several hours chasing balls and springs around the garage floor! You might get away with new selectors and selector rod bushes.

That should keep you busy!

Chris
 
Tom W said:
If you're planning on doing big jobs, this is the best manual to get.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-2000-2200-P ... _652wt_932

It's the original Leyland factory manual and has everything in. With that, and the help on here, you'll have everything covered.
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Ok Tom cheers Wow it's a bit expensive compared to the Haynes, but I suppose the Haynes manuals are a bit basic in their descriptions. I am going to put some items on eBay today so I might buy one with the money I get from that. Looks like I might have to repair my gearbox so a better manual might be the way to go.

Thanks for the advice. :)
 
P6-SI said:
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the advice. I had a good look round her today like you suggested and have good and bad news to report.

Good news. Bodywork is excellent, sills and D post are excellent, inner wings look and feel solid, boot floor is mint.

Bad news. Jumps out of reverse every now and then, engine runs a little lumpy (spark plugs are dark and sooty) I assume it's running rich as it smells petroly. We will give her a service and get a carb service kit and chek timing so I am confident we can sort that out.
When I change gear and come off clutch I can hear a light clunking coming from the rear. My dad thinks it could be propshaft or driveshaft joint wear. I will know a bit more when I can get the car on our ramps and have a better look, but need better weather.
Also noticed that the side plates are well rusty and this concerns me the most as the level in the rad keeps going down, not by much but it looks a bit wet around the plates. I will post some pictures tomorrow under Members Projects so you can have a look, is it a hard job to do, I am still awaiting my Haynes manual from eBay so I cant read up on it at mo.

Cheers

Si
Dave
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[/quote]
Mine needed new sideplates when the head was replaced, the amount of sludge that can be found in the sideplates is unbelievable. The sludge in my sideplates was actually an integral part of their structure. Mine was using a fair bit of water too, but unfortunately, a previous owner had used a rad weld type thing to solve coolant leaks, which had filled all of the waterways in the engine, which meant my car needed quite a lot of engine work recently. There are photos of my old sideplates in my section in owners' cars. Mine was also running a bit rich, and I think it may still be slightly rich, so I'll probably buy a carb rebuild kit at some point in the future. From the sounds of it, your car hasn't been messed around, so yours should be far more straightforward. Sounds like you've bought a very nice car.
 
chrisyork said:
Hi Si

Side plates aren't the end of the world, just fiddly working under the carbs. And a good opportunity to flush out the block.

Drive shaft and prop shaft UJ's are a good idea. Just treat them as the cosummables that they are and change the lot. You may be surprised at how bad the ones are that look and feel OK in situ! More likely as the source of the clunk is the rubber mounts at the back of the diff into the bodyshell. It's always the nearside one that goes first (I'll let you work out why - action and reaction is equal and opp....). They are easy to change though, so not scarey.

Gearboxes are not my strong point - I've always fought well shy of them ever since a mate and I had the box of a Cooper 997 apart on the afternoon before a night rally and I spent several hours chasing balls and springs around the garage floor! You might get away with new selectors and selector rod bushes.

That should keep you busy!

Chris
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Cheers Chris, you have put my mind at rest over the side plates. I think your right on the uj's and I will replace them all, I will also have a look at the diff mounts and replace them. I might as well get it over in one go I suppose.

On the gearbox front I will try and nurse this along until the summer and make a decision then, I've never taken one apart so I might adopt your policy on this one and seek outside help once I've saved up the funds of course. :cry:
The side plates and flushing the system will be my first job I think.

Thanks very much for your advice.

Si
 
Hi Si,

As Chris says, I'd put money on the clonk coming from the diff mounts - 'cos I've had the exact same symptoms - there are 3 bushes, one under each side of the diff, and one under the front nose (it's a long nose)!

Cheers,
Bri.
 
P6-SI said:
Tom W said:
If you're planning on doing big jobs, this is the best manual to get.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-2000-2200-P ... _652wt_932

It's the original Leyland factory manual and has everything in. With that, and the help on here, you'll have everything covered.
Click to expand...


Ok Tom cheers Wow it's a bit expensive compared to the Haynes, but I suppose the Haynes manuals are a bit basic in their descriptions. I am going to put some items on eBay today so I might buy one with the money I get from that. Looks like I might have to repair my gearbox so a better manual might be the way to go.

Thanks for the advice. :)
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You may find one cheaper than that, that was just the first one I found. There are usually new reprints and genuine originals available on eBay. Originals tend to be more, even though they're used.

Great looking car you have by the way, it looks very smart.

I need to swap the sideplates on my 2200tc as one's weeping and I suspect the engine's sludged. I'll be taking photos when I make a start.
 
Brian-Northampton said:
Hi Si,

As Chris says, I'd put money on the clonk coming from the diff mounts - 'cos I've had the exact same symptoms - there are 3 bushes, one under each side of the diff, and one under the front nose (it's a long nose)!

Cheers,
Bri.
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Cheers Bri,

I will get her up on the ramps and have a Nose, and also look up the price of them and add them to my ever increasing parts list :cry:

Si
 
Ok Tom cheers,

I will keep my eye out for your pictures incase you replace yours first. :) it's a good excuse to flush out the system aswell, mine might not have been touched for 38 years ( my car that is ) :LOL:

Si
 
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