Heat Wrap.

If you did decide to use heat-wrap then I used 2 rolls of Thermo-Tec on Bruisers manifold, about £44 on ebay. I got the S/S ties seperately from ebay but to be honest they weren't up to much, they didn't lock like plastic ties do. I guess you'd be looking at the thick end of £100 to do your V8 though I think you can get the wrap cheaper than I did.
It's in a pile on the floor now, I'll take a picture later & you'll see how fragile it became after only four months of daily use on the car, you've seen the manifold at the start of this thread.
It does work however as I stated & others have testified too, though I won't be using it again. Bruisers exhaust is back together & I'm hopeful the manifold will survive this time due to a bit of adjustment to the mounting points & some careful fitting, ensuring that there is no undue stress on the mounts or the intermediate to manifold joint.
But I'm not spending another £50 on heat-wrap. :LOL:
 
Chris/RM

Thanks, that's a lot more than I was expecting but I welcome the added detail.

I had seen Quattro's posts on ceramic coating his stainless headers and that must be the ultimate solution. I may well bite the bullet and go down that route eventually. I was hoping to do something to the manifolds without having to remove them (the prospect of sheared studs and all that goes with it) but if they need to come off to achieve the best result then so be it. I got this response from Demon Tweeks:

Hello

Thank you for your email.

The cast manifolds are normally painted with a ceramic type paint rather than wrapped as the extra heat retention can cause cracks in the casting.

Only the tubular parts of the exhaust should be wrapped.

Paint for the cast manifolds - Black satin thermal coating

Exhaust wrap - 2" x 15' x 2 should be sufficient to wrap both downpipes of the manifolds

which seems to reinforce RM's experience with Bruiser. My engine runs very well and returns pretty good mpg (28 on a recent run). The bonnet seems to seal well enough at the slam panel but the hinges are worn so it wobbles at speed :). This might be helping when moving as it will increase the rear gap but that's not the case when stationary. I'm surprised to hear that the wrap doesn't seem to last long, that might sway my decision. How effective do you reckon the DIY spray coating that DT offers would be? Obviously not as good as a pro ceramic coating but if it gave me a bit of breathing space for a few months until I could save up for a pro job then I'd be happy.

Now that my car is suffering from vapour lock on a regular basis if I'm sitting in traffic for a prolongued period, it's become a more pressing issue to sort. Bloody thing was fine until I cleaned all the old oil and gunge off it. Never suffered vapour lock at all :evil:

Dave
 
This is what it looked like just after I put it on, no way you can do it without removing the manifolds though.

100_8118.jpg
 
If your problem is fuel vapour lock only, Dave, and you are otherwise happy with the underbonnet temperature, why not adopt the Gareth P6 mod? ie take the fuel line outside the engine bay via the hole behind the steering idler, run it down the outside of the inner wing and bring it back in adjacent to the back of the headlamps where it is already nice and close to the fuel pump.

Otherwise, DT's "ceramic paint" sounds like a good punt. I think I'd check what Halfords et al have before I commited though.

Chris
 
Or why not make a good insulation on the fuel line alone?

Start with that fancy "ceramic paint" and then wrap it as best as you can?
If a dirt covered fuel line was effective, then you surely can improve on this. :wink:
 
Demetris said:
Or why not make a good insulation on the fuel line alone?

Start with that fancy "ceramic paint" and then wrap it as best as you can?
If a dirt covered fuel line was effective, then you surely can improve on this. :wink:
Click to expand...

That's what I'll be trying first. I've got some race spec thermal insulation tubing coming which I'm going to put over the fuel pipe to see if that helps.

chrisyork said:
If your problem is fuel vapour lock only, Dave, and you are otherwise happy with the underbonnet temperature, why not adopt the Gareth P6 mod? ie take the fuel line outside the engine bay via the hole behind the steering idler, run it down the outside of the inner wing and bring it back in adjacent to the back of the headlamps where it is already nice and close to the fuel pump.

Otherwise, DT's "ceramic paint" sounds like a good punt. I think I'd check what Halfords et al have before I commited though.

Chris
Click to expand...

Gareth P6's re-routed fuel line is the back-up plan :wink:

Dave
 
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