Hello!

[webmaster]

The best way to assess the rot is to remove all 4 wings and the sill covers. Not a dificult job by any means and you'll soon understand they way they are constructed.

To give yourself some idea, have a look at some of the other Project threads, particularly Quattro's rebuild of sparky, http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6548

P.s. Loved the K midget build, excellent work.

 

[Thijs Leuven]

Lovely car, really digging the motorway shot. 8)

 

[Dave3066]

you'll be astonished by how much adhesion in a long fast bend is available from those skinny tyres!

I drive to work on a fairly fast trunk road that has a few tight bends and I love pushing the car that little bit quicker every now and again.....usually when someone has overtaken me because of the car I drive. I tend to stick with them through the bends (much to their surprise ) just to let them know I can, before backing off again to a safe distance and enjoying the drive once again.

comedy squealing on low speed roundabouts

My car has standard 185s and there's one particular 90 degree bend on the way to work that my tyres squeal on when I take it at any faster than about 40mph

In dry conditions the car really does stick to the road though. I remember coming round a tight right hand bend on a road with trees on the inside to find a lorry coming the other way over the white lines. I put the car right on the far left hand edge of the road and she flew round the bend like she was in a centrifuge. That got the old ticker racing but confirmed how good the handling is.

Dave

 

[webmaster]

Tyre squealing can be down to the tyres themselves, I had an 800 that used to squeal on every corner almost regardless of speed, I swapped the tyres and it stopped completely.

Ocassionally I used to take the back roads home from work in my 2.2TC, and give it a good thrashing, had a very spiritted drive following a Golf R32 once, he was seriously impressed that I managed to keep up with him (in the bends at least), got the big thumbs up when we finally went seperate ways.

 

[1396midget]

doesn't squeal any more with new tyres on the front probably for the best, the ones on there were 27 years old :shock:

I have to admit to being surprised at how well it holds onto the road when the surface is bumpy. Stuff that would upset the midget at the same speed(and I've spent some time setting that up) is just dismissed with a bouncy waft. fantastic.

I even found a rubber throttle bush just lying on the driver's side rocker cover, the one in the proper place had disintegrated, looked like someone had meant to fit it then forgot. So that's a nice bonus!

I was trying to fix a big clunk it has into reverse , suspect the idle speed is too high, all the other changes are silky smoooooooth (except for 2nd to first) and kickdown works fantastically. Need to get it up in the air to check for driveline play and diff backlash as it sounds a bit like a V8 tram in '1'.

Pleased people have enjoyed the Kmidget site. That's why I did it

 

[chrisyork]

That's exactly the point of the P6. Soft long travel suspension, well controlled and with good geometry trumps even the best circuit racer every time on real roads. Sort the roll with a roll bar or two and you have the ideal set up for the UK's fast rural roads.

HAve a look at the layout of the throttle linkage in the reference section of Ian (Rover-Classics) web site and you'll find there are a number of rubber bushes in the throttle linkage, most of which are prone to go missing. The most important ones are the one attached to the off side bulkhead where the linkage changes direction from side to side to fore and aft, and the one where the pedal passes through the bulkhead. Getting these right is the most effective method of tuning the engine as it allows you to achieve full throttle....

Once done, you might need to adjust the kick down cable to the transmission. f you've tightened up the linkage it will probably be too tight and won't let you change up early enough. Also it will exacerbate the clonk going into drive. As a rule of thumb, it should be set to the slackest that will still just give you kick down. Then the other measure to reduce take up clonk is to get the engine to idle as slowly as it is happy to. The book value is 650rpm, but if you can get it to idle happily at 500rpm that's even better.

The BW is an unusual box to drive. I find I tend to drive it like a manual - that is, still in D but throttling off momentarily when I want it to change up.

Chris