New Rover Project -not P6
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The Rovering Member
Well-Known Member
Yes, very tidy. I didn't bother grinding the wheelarch welds on Bruiser. They're neat & I don't mind people seeing seeing where repairs have been carried out. After all, if they can be bothered to look in the wheelarch in the first place... :wink:
webmaster
New Member
Ok, I've just about finished the easier passenger side, bought some paint yesterday and managed to get it sprayed before going out. I only sprayed the lower half of the panel, but I've T-Cut and waxed the top half to see what the colour match is like and it looks pretty good to me. Door needs a good T-Cut and polish yet...
The bad side is coming on, I've got the top half flat now and in primer, the lower half still needs a bit more filler work but it's close.
Couple more days on that and it should be sorted. Needs to be ready for the end of the month as the tax runs out on her 820, so I can sorn that and she can use this.
The bad side is coming on, I've got the top half flat now and in primer, the lower half still needs a bit more filler work but it's close.
Couple more days on that and it should be sorted. Needs to be ready for the end of the month as the tax runs out on her 820, so I can sorn that and she can use this.
webmaster
New Member
Ok, well I've spent most of the weekend working on the drivers side, hoping to get it finished, but as these things tend to do, it's proved a bit more dificult than expected to get the panel as flat as I want, so I have got as far as having the panel in primer. There is a large rubbing strip that covers the join between the top and bottom panels, so that area doesn't need to be perfect.
webmaster
New Member
Ok, well finally got the rear wing painted today, forcast rain later, and the car needed to be ready for end of next week, so I got out early to get the job done. I've been trying to do some after work but by the time I get home all the midges are out !
Lots of masking...
It was quite breezy so I added so wind-breaks to the gazebo to help keep the dust down, also plenty of water on the ground, kept the dust down but still ended up with a few bugs in the laquer. Here it is in basecoat...
Here it is shortly after the final coat of laquer...
Spent the rest of the day putting bits of the car back on, adjusting the passenger door window, oh and fitting a bonnet to my brothers Corsa, anyway later on the laquer was hard enough to put the car back together, and here it is...
Not bad, paint is a bit brighter than the old paint, however is looks to be pretty much the same colour, also I haven't acheived the perfect flat gloss I was hoping for, so hopefully I can flat it back a bit and buff it back up, coupled with t-cutting the other panels, should end up with a good finish.
At least the wife is dead happy, she'll be able to drive it in a couple of days.
Now just need to prep up for the first HGF !
Lots of masking...
It was quite breezy so I added so wind-breaks to the gazebo to help keep the dust down, also plenty of water on the ground, kept the dust down but still ended up with a few bugs in the laquer. Here it is in basecoat...
Here it is shortly after the final coat of laquer...
Spent the rest of the day putting bits of the car back on, adjusting the passenger door window, oh and fitting a bonnet to my brothers Corsa, anyway later on the laquer was hard enough to put the car back together, and here it is...
Not bad, paint is a bit brighter than the old paint, however is looks to be pretty much the same colour, also I haven't acheived the perfect flat gloss I was hoping for, so hopefully I can flat it back a bit and buff it back up, coupled with t-cutting the other panels, should end up with a good finish.
At least the wife is dead happy, she'll be able to drive it in a couple of days.
Now just need to prep up for the first HGF !
webmaster
New Member
The door is still showing some damage, but I got inside and used a rubber hammer handle braced against various bits of wood to "roll" the dents out, it's not perfect, but being a door it's easier to just get another one and swap it whole, I've seen them on ebay, even in the right colour, so if it upsets me too much I'll get another. Also the rubbing strip is damaged on the end near the rear wing so that needs replacing.
The front wing on the drivers side appears to have been resprayed (badly) at some point and has some small bubbles showing on the top, so I'll probably pick up another wing at some time and spray it before fitting.
The front wing on the drivers side appears to have been resprayed (badly) at some point and has some small bubbles showing on the top, so I'll probably pick up another wing at some time and spray it before fitting.
webmaster
New Member
Following my ecu modification to control the rad fan, and following some coolant loss from a split hose, I decided to add a float switch into the coolant tank so I can have a buzzer to warn of low coolant, I may even wire it to the starter circuit to prevent the car from being started with low coolant (can't be too carefull with a K).
I bought a spare tank from the breakers and a float switch off ebay for £5.
Close up of the float switch, the circuit is closed when the float is level with the rest of the body, so I'll fit it so the float lifts up above the switch and falls level as the coolant drops.
I cut a 16mm hole in the side of the tank
And fitted the switch...
I've tested it and the switch closes just as the coolant reaches minimum.
Next job is to run a cable into the car, and fit a buzzer / relay circuit.
My only concern is that with the hole being below the level of the coolant, it may be prone to leaking, I have seen other float switches that drop down from the top and the float slides up a pole, but these have to be the correct length for the coolant level, so are harder to find. At least if it does leak, the buzzer will let us know !
I bought a spare tank from the breakers and a float switch off ebay for £5.
Close up of the float switch, the circuit is closed when the float is level with the rest of the body, so I'll fit it so the float lifts up above the switch and falls level as the coolant drops.
I cut a 16mm hole in the side of the tank
And fitted the switch...
I've tested it and the switch closes just as the coolant reaches minimum.
Next job is to run a cable into the car, and fit a buzzer / relay circuit.
My only concern is that with the hole being below the level of the coolant, it may be prone to leaking, I have seen other float switches that drop down from the top and the float slides up a pole, but these have to be the correct length for the coolant level, so are harder to find. At least if it does leak, the buzzer will let us know !
I bought an SD1 header tank for Sparky and it already has electrical contacts on it - not sure exactly how they work as I haven't had a good look yet.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0353935103
I have a spare warning light though (choke warning light not connected to weber) and will be rigging it up to this.
It's bound to work 8)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0353935103
I have a spare warning light though (choke warning light not connected to weber) and will be rigging it up to this.
It's bound to work 8)
webmaster
New Member
It's a 216, but has had a 214 engine fitted with matching ecu etc, then it's had a 216 engine fitted back in but they left the 214 ecu in it.
The later ecu's are coded to the imobilisers on these cars so it's not just a case of dropping another ecu in, you need to either decode the ecu to match the imobiliser, or get the matching imobiliser for the ecu (i.e. get them both from the same car along with alarm fob).
It actually runs pretty well on the 214 ecu, so I'm going to leave it alone for now, unless it's drinking fuel at an excessive rate.
Richard, that tanks looks pretty handy for the P6, you'll just need to put a test meter across those connections and see what happens with water in/out of the bottle.
The later ecu's are coded to the imobilisers on these cars so it's not just a case of dropping another ecu in, you need to either decode the ecu to match the imobiliser, or get the matching imobiliser for the ecu (i.e. get them both from the same car along with alarm fob).
It actually runs pretty well on the 214 ecu, so I'm going to leave it alone for now, unless it's drinking fuel at an excessive rate.
Richard, that tanks looks pretty handy for the P6, you'll just need to put a test meter across those connections and see what happens with water in/out of the bottle.
Brian-Northampton
Administrator
So it was you who bought that SD1 tank on eBay! I had my eye on that, but was rather surprised as to how much interest it acquired! (it is of the right heritage too!)
There's no reason why you shouldn't link it up to the choke light - even if your choke light was working normally. I mean, the brake light has multiple functions!
And I had that similar thought - I'll be perusing the autojumbles for one just like it!
Brian.
There's no reason why you shouldn't link it up to the choke light - even if your choke light was working normally. I mean, the brake light has multiple functions!
And I had that similar thought - I'll be perusing the autojumbles for one just like it!
Brian.
Brian-Northampton said:
Recieved the tank, didn't notice your eye?
Seriously though, I have been on the look out for one for quite a while as I had fitted one from an Austin Maxi to my last V8, and it made a big difference.
All I did then was to bolt the thing in, run a pipe from the overflow on the rad to the tank, fit a oil cap to the rad, and fit the pressure cap to the tank - job done and always had a full radiator
Demetris
Well-Known Member
I have the same tank fitted in my TC (without the sensor thing) and it came out of an Allegro!
So maybe it is more common than you think as it should have been on quite a few Leyland cars of the period.
And with it yes the radiator and the heater are always filled to the top without any air locks.
So maybe it is more common than you think as it should have been on quite a few Leyland cars of the period.
And with it yes the radiator and the heater are always filled to the top without any air locks.
arthuy
Well-Known Member
SD1 have a warning unit that goes with the sensors. there was also one fitted on the radiator. I think in principle the current will flow between the probes through the coolant but the unit probably amplifies it and switches the warning light on.
Even when the car had plenty coolant the poxy warning lamp would flick on.
I was going to fit the sensors to my radiator of the p6 but never got round to it.
Colin
Even when the car had plenty coolant the poxy warning lamp would flick on.
I was going to fit the sensors to my radiator of the p6 but never got round to it.
Colin