Newbie young comer, researching the P6.

It certainly is :LOL:

I've been giving the Rover a lot of thought and have been taking notes. The advice given seems to be very good sound advice too.
One question I do have is... "how on earth" do you change the rear brake discs? :LOL:

What in your opinion would suit me? I mainly drive around town and on the country type open lanes, sometimes motorway but not very often (as I don't normally have the need to) doing anything from 200 miles per week to 300 miles per week. doing a 30 mile's round trip, 5 days per week on town and country roads.
(I've obtained quotes but it appears I can't have a manual.. so automatic is the only option).

Thanks

Rob
 
Hi, and welcome to the forum, hope your P6 search goes well.


biffa said:
"how on earth" do you change the rear brake discs?
Click to expand...

I haven't come anywhere near that job myself, yet, but from what I gather - it's pads out, wheels off, loosen lock tabs, then a socket with about 10 extender bars :roll: and a breaker bar to get the driveshaft nuts (and driveshafts themselves) off, then they should come off with that. Then, with replacement discs and lock tabs to hand 'replacement is the opposite of removal.' I also gather a lot of swearing is involved in this job too...


biffa said:
(I've obtained quotes but it appears I can't have a manual.. so automatic is the only option).
Click to expand...

When I was looking on the comparison websites, which only caters for modern insurance, I found that all of the quotes for all 4 cylinder automatics were the same as all of the quotes for all of the 4 cylinder single carburettor model manuals. Only the other models (TC and V8 autos and manuals) were more expensive. Of course, being modern insurance for a classic car, the quotes were truly ridiculous and not comparable to classic car insurance quotes.

Cheers, Adam.
 
Adam Birch said:
biffa said:
"how on earth" do you change the rear brake discs?
Click to expand...

a socket with about 10 extender bars :roll: and a breaker bar to get the driveshaft nuts (and driveshafts themselves) off,
Click to expand...

:LOL: I managed with a 6 inch extender (or a deep socket would probably clear the UJ) and a breaker bar. 5/8" socket for the driveshaft bolts IIRC.

Dave
 
biffa said:
What in your opinion would suit me? I mainly drive around town and on the country type open lanes, sometimes motorway but not very often (as I don't normally have the need to) doing anything from 200 miles per week to 300 miles per week. doing a 30 mile's round trip, 5 days per week on town and country roads.
Click to expand...

In my personal opinion, any P6 can be used as an every day car, it just depends on your personal preference. For that sort of mileage, the most relaxing would be the 3500 V8 automatic, with effortless power at hand, the manuals are very fast too. Although, if there are generally a lot of hold ups/traffic on your journey, a V8 may be better avoided due to the tendency to vapour lock (unless an electric pump and fan are fitted), and from what I gather, they have bad fuel consumption in traffic too - otherwise they're as good as the 4 cylinder, fuel wise.

Then there's the 4 cylinder - there are 2200's and 2000's. Looking at series 2's, due to the better parts supply, the possibilities here are TC's SC's and Autos in both engine forms. The 2200TC is the most powerful and usable, although is more complicated to set up, and with all TC's - is plagued by the exhaust's manifold's tendency to split. I have heard recently though, that if a TC is set up to run perfectly, it will be the most economical of the P6 range. For simplicity, an SC is the one to go for - they seem to have the cheapest service items, are the easiest to set up, and I believe can be described as the most bullet proof of the range too, with the least general amount of problems (although don't quote me on that). Out of the SC's, as far as I'm aware, both gearboxes are durable, although the automatic is a slower and less economical car that can become tiring on long journeys. The SC manual is extremely capable at all sorts of journeys - my dad had one, in which we managed a 300 mile round trip in a day, averaging 30mpg - which included some high speed work, as well as traffic.

the good and bad years for all P6's have already been mentioned (in terms of rust and build quality) and it is also mentioned a free tax one will be better overall too. So, from all of this, I would recommend a 1971 or 1972 2000 SC manual, with the automatic as a second choice.

Hope this has helped,
Adam.
 
+3 for 'well said'.
My personal preference would be for the manual every time. The clutch is heavier than a modern, but it's not tiring - I drive mine about 200 miles a week and am still fresh as a daisy at the other end. In my limited experience of a Borg Warner, they are bit dim-witted and contribute to excessive fuel consumtion. In that respect, an SC manual would be my top choice in your situation, as it gives the optimum balance of better economy and better performance - if you change gear like it's a diesel, it won't go anywhere fast, but drive like an Italian and a 2000 gets up to speed at quite a respectable rate!

Michael
 
Thank you all for your responses, its nice to see such a helpful freindly club.
It will take me a while to save up for the car, so I'd like to use the time while i'm waiting to learn about the car.
But i'd also like to budget for any servicing suggestions you may have that might be required straight away.
And also to budget for anything i'm likely to need within the first 12 months (obviously depending on the quality of the car in the first place, but what am I most likely to need).
I won't have lots of money to throw at it so would like to be prepared. Then I have the time to learn how to do those repairs myself to keep costs down.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Rob
 
Hi Rob

I think at this stage the most important thing is to go and look at a few P6's that are for sale. You don'y have to tell the seller that you don't have the money yet! Go and see top notch ones as well as ones you think you might afford.

After that, try and find someone local to you who has a 4 cylinder car. Get to know them and go and see them whenever they do some work on it! So first requirement is to tell us all where you are.

Chris
 
biffa said:
"how on earth" do you change the rear brake discs?
Click to expand...

I haven't come anywhere near that job myself, yet, but from what I gather - it's pads out, wheels off, loosen lock tabs, then a socket with about 10 extender bars :roll: and a breaker bar to get the driveshaft nuts (and driveshafts themselves) off, then they should come off with that.
Click to expand...

Just a small change of order, you need the handbrake on so that you can undo the driveshaft nuts. So pads stay in place until after that.
 
I think that changing the rear discs should be the least of your worries - rear brakes are not as bad as you'd think
Concentrate on finding a car with a sound shell unless you are good at welding- everything else is just nuts and bolts
 
Thanks to you all for your responses so far, I want to try and learn as much as I can while i'm waiting to buy a car and just want to say thank you to you all for welcoming me and responding like you have.
Keep the information coming, I know I've got a lot to learn about them. :D

Thanks

rob
 
chrisyork said:
Hi Rob

I think at this stage the most important thing is to go and look at a few P6's that are for sale. You don'y have to tell the seller that you don't have the money yet! Go and see top notch ones as well as ones you think you might afford.

After that, try and find someone local to you who has a 4 cylinder car. Get to know them and go and see them whenever they do some work on it! So first requirement is to tell us all where you are.

Chris
Click to expand...

I'm located in Castleford, West Yorkshire. Anyone near me so I can take on board what Chris has said?

Thought I'd update, while trying to learn more, by going through the various projects on here and looking around on google, I found this link http://www.rover.org.nz/manuals/p6/contents.htm

Which has given me a good idea of just how well these cars are built! and also found very useful.

Thanks

Rob
 
Hi Rob, why not pop along to one of the shows attended by P6ers. Will get you up close and personal to the car and a chat with the guys, oops and girls.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top