Preparing long-standing V8 engine for starting

NickDunning

NickDunning

Active Member
Gents
I've just aquired a really lovely 1975 3500S. It's a real beauty with under 60k on the clock. Needs rear brakes sorting and a little welding and she should go again.

I'm not the world's most knowledgable V8 man - what the best procedure for prepping the engine prior to attempting to re-start it. It has not run since 2005.

Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the oil pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
 
NickDunning said:
Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the fuel pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the oil pump not the fuel pump. You could remove the plugs, put a few shots of oil down each bore, and then crank it to try to get the oil light to go out, or the gauge to move up a bit. If the light goes out you could check for a spark, spray a small amount of fresh petrol down the carbs (after making sure the pistons are free) put the plugs back in and give it a whirl and see what happens. If you don't get oil pressure up you'll have to either dismantle the pump and prime the pump with Vaseline, or remove the distributor and use a priming tool on the oil pump drive.
 
NickDunning said:
Gents
I've just aquired a really lovely 1975 3500S. It's a real beauty with under 60k on the clock. Needs rear brakes sorting and a little welding and she should go again.

I'm not the world's most knowledgable V8 man - what the best procedure for prepping the engine prior to attempting to re-start it. It has not run since 2005.

Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the fuel pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...
That motor sounds interesting, do tell us more...
 
harveyp6 said:
NickDunning said:
Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the fuel pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the oil pump not the fuel pump. You could remove the plugs, put a few shots of oil down each bore, and then crank it to try to get the oil light to go out, or the gauge to move up a bit. If the light goes out you could check for a spark, spray a small amount of fresh petrol down the carbs (after making sure the pistons are free) put the plugs back in and give it a whirl and see what happens. If you don't get oil pressure up you'll have to either dismantle the pump and prime the pump with Vaseline, or remove the distributor and use a priming tool on the oil pump drive.
Click to expand...

Well spotted Harvey, I did mean oil pump!

Your method is the same as the one we'd use. I'm also thinking of draining the oil in the engine at present and putting some thin stuff in so it hits the cams quicker, then draining it for proper 20/50 once the engine has been run.

The second part about priming the oil pump will be the one we follow if there's an inkling of problems.

Thanks
Nick
 
grifterkid said:
NickDunning said:
Gents
I've just aquired a really lovely 1975 3500S. It's a real beauty with under 60k on the clock. Needs rear brakes sorting and a little welding and she should go again.

I'm not the world's most knowledgable V8 man - what the best procedure for prepping the engine prior to attempting to re-start it. It has not run since 2005.

Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the fuel pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...
That motor sounds interesting, do tell us more...
Click to expand...

It is - I've purchased the car to renovate and pass on in my usual fashion, however I can see me having a fleet crisis with this one, it is really superb. On top of being fully loaded with PAS, boot mount, tow kit, webasto roof, etc. etc. it also has an SD1 five speed box fitted with the long fifth gear. Downside is some damage underneath where it's been jacked up in the wrong place at some point in time, and a bent boot floor from some over-zealous use of the tow bar.

11thMarch20101.jpg


I've always had a rule of not running personally more than two P6's at a time, if I keep this one I'll have to lose one of my cars, and it probably won't be my 2200 auto, which is too good (and useful) a car to part with. My almost mint 1964 2000 could be in the frame, but it'd be a huge decision to make.

Once we get the 3500S running/driving a decision will have to be made :shock:

Cheers
Nick
 
dmcsweeney said:
You lucky sod! That is stunning looking :shock: !Best of luck with getting her running.
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...

I did pay good money for her, and I do have my nose firmly on the ground looking for cars...but yes, she is a lovely motor indeed.
 
Really nice car by the looks of it!
Harvey; what is the main reason to avoid Webasto roofs? I have two options for my project car, either plain black vinyl roof in good condition or a vinyl roof with a good Webasto roof in it. Why should I not put in the Webasto. I am thinking of the beutiful mountain scenery you then can see through the roof on a nice summer day. For cold & wet days and driving in tunnels I can see Webastos being a pain.
Regards, Barten
 
Personally, I'm with Harvey in the camp that loathes Webasto's. I do think it is a very personal thing though. My view is based on using the car as a performance saloon, so very fast A roads interspersed with motorway flogs. A webasto can't be enjoyed in those scenario's, so all I get is the hassle of the additional wind noise. On the other hand, if you are into easy touring in stunning scenery I would accept that it's a must and the price of a small increase in wind noise when closed is acceptable.

Chris
 
NickDunning said:
harveyp6 said:
NickDunning said:
Previously Duncan has run up long-dormant engines with the plugs out etc. before starting them - I don't want to run a risk of any damage, I'm aware there's the issue of priming the fuel pump ideally...what's the best procedure??

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the oil pump not the fuel pump. You could remove the plugs, put a few shots of oil down each bore, and then crank it to try to get the oil light to go out, or the gauge to move up a bit. If the light goes out you could check for a spark, spray a small amount of fresh petrol down the carbs (after making sure the pistons are free) put the plugs back in and give it a whirl and see what happens. If you don't get oil pressure up you'll have to either dismantle the pump and prime the pump with Vaseline, or remove the distributor and use a priming tool on the oil pump drive.
Click to expand...

Well spotted Harvey, I did mean oil pump!

Your method is the same as the one we'd use. I'm also thinking of draining the oil in the engine at present and putting some thin stuff in so it hits the cams quicker, then draining it for proper 20/50 once the engine has been run.

The second part about priming the oil pump will be the one we follow if there's an inkling of problems.

Thanks
Nick
Click to expand...
The V8 only has the one Cam and if you follow that procedure above you'll have no worries. Once I'd run it I'd lose the old oil anyway, wouldn't bother doing it first IMO unless it looks suspect :) I love getting stuff up and running that's been sat for a while, very satisfying 8) Hope it's a goodun :wink:
 
NickDunning said:
My almost mint 1964 2000 could be in the frame, but it'd be a huge decision to make.
Click to expand...

I'd love an early Series 1 :wink: :wink: , ideally a '66 as it's the year I was born, but a '64 would suffice :)

Dave
 
Barten said:
Harvey; what is the main reason to avoid Webasto roofs? I have two options for my project car, either plain black vinyl roof in good condition or a vinyl roof with a good Webasto roof in it. Why should I not put in the Webasto. I am thinking of the beutiful mountain scenery you then can see through the roof on a nice summer day. For cold & wet days and driving in tunnels I can see Webastos being a pain.
Regards, Barten
Click to expand...

I would never have a Webasto roof or similar in any car of mine, but that's my choice, I would never say that anyone else shouldn't have one just because I don't like them, but I drove these cars when they were new, and often to and from where the dealer was having these roofs fitted prior to delivery to the customer. At the time they were a car I could only aspire to, I had to wait about a year from then before I got my first one, but the drive down was always a real treat for me, the return trip however was always spoilt by the increased wind noise, even though the roofs were new, plus also the reduction in headroom, and the sunroof visor which on a lot of conversions meant if you leant forward it hit you on the forehead. They just don't do it for me I'm afraid, I've had cars with them, but I've always moved them on. Obviously at the right price I'd have a car with one fitted, but I'd want to sell the roof panel complete to someone who wanted it, and I'd just have a plain vinyl roof thanks.
 
Barten,

I had one on my last car and I'm not having one again. For scenic cruising up to about 80 kmh summertime it's great for passengers gazing upward at whatever is there, but I too had an issue with the ambient noise it let through when closed plus wind noise at speed. I would actually have preferred a regular aftermarket tilting glass sunroof.

Love the red 'S', gorgeous looking!

Edit: Almost forgot, it might have been the general structure of that previously-welded car, but I had scuttle shake in it as with convertible cars. Might have been a coincidence, but not a nice one.
 
Dave3066 said:
NickDunning said:
My almost mint 1964 2000 could be in the frame, but it'd be a huge decision to make.
Click to expand...

I'd love an early Series 1 :wink: :wink: , ideally a '66 as it's the year I was born, but a '64 would suffice :)

Dave
Click to expand...

If I do sell it, it will be a very hard decision. IMHO it's one of the best two or three early 2000's in the cosmos.

:cry:
 
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