Removing the clutch master cylinder

R

Redkelpie

New Member
Hi all,

Recently purchased, more like inherited, a 74 Rover 3500S, with a whole heap of spares; engine, auto transmission, diff, rear end suspension, etc. I even inherited the workshop manual, which is kind of handy as, Rover has been sitting in a shed for the past 12 years & is in desperate need of some tlc.

After quite some tinkering & tickling around under the bonnet, the engine roared into life & what a magic sound she makes. further investigation has revealed the hydraulic system has fairly much ceased up. By that, I mean the brake & clutch master cyclinders have completely ceased, which I have been able to get them both out ok.

My dilemma / challenge is that the clutch peddal push rod also appears to have ceased & to obtain access, the unit which houses the clutch master cylinder needs to be removed.. I am having a time & a half getting access to the bottom nut of this unit, which bolts directly into the bulk head. Is there anyone out there which has come across a similar dilemma & has any advice / tips on how to get to this pesky bolt?

Cheers

Pete
 
The brake and clutch pushrods screw into the top of pedals,and are held with a locknut accessed via the footwell no need to take that bit thats bolted to the bulkhead off.
BTW Welcome and what area are you in??
 
The brake and clutch pushrods screw into the top of pedals,and are held with a locknut accessed via the footwell no need to take that bit thats bolted to the bulkhead off.
Click to expand...

Not on the 3500S Pilkie. (Assuming it is a genuine 'S' and not a converted auto with 4 cyl parts) The clutch master is vertically mounted next to the steering box and is operated by a bellcrank off the side of the pedal. It's been a long time since I've done one but you shouldn't have to remove the whole assembly. Once the air cleaner has been removed, take a look through from the passenger side of the car (with a torch if neccessary) and you should be able to see the pushrod and a split pin or 'R' clip. Pull this out and push the cotter pin through and then it's just a matter of undoing the pipes and the two bolts that hold the cylinder on.
 
KiwiRover said:
The brake and clutch pushrods screw into the top of pedals,and are held with a locknut accessed via the footwell no need to take that bit thats bolted to the bulkhead off.
Click to expand...

Not on the 3500S Pilkie. (Assuming it is a genuine 'S' and not a converted auto with 4 cyl parts) The clutch master is vertically mounted next to the steering box and is operated by a bellcrank off the side of the pedal. It's been a long time since I've done one but you shouldn't have to remove the whole assembly. Once the air cleaner has been removed, take a look through from the passenger side of the car (with a torch if neccessary) and you should be able to see the pushrod and a split pin or 'R' clip. Pull this out and push the cotter pin through and then it's just a matter of undoing the pipes and the two bolts that hold the cylinder on.
Click to expand...

Having done my car's clutch master cylinder earlier this year I concur. 2 bolts hold the cylinder vertically in the mount then as Kiwi says remove the pin. The cotter pin on mine was rusted in (just as well as there was no locking pin fitted :shock: ) and needed a fair bit of persuasion to come out. It's tight for access and I haven't got the biggest hands in the world but I managed.

It's not brilliant but this is the best pic I have of the cylinder mounted

Chokecable1.jpg


Dave
 
Hi Pete...and welcome! :)

As Dave says, you really need tiny, nimble fingers but it can be done. The worst bit in removing the bracket for me was clevis pin which was completely seized in the clevis itself.

I had to take the bracket off as the locknut had been rounded off by some butcher ( :roll: ) and also rusted solid on the pushrod.

There's some good tips from Harvey in setting the whole thing back up in this thread > click here<

Good Luck!

Cheers,
 
Hi guys,

thanks heaps for the advice, from what I can tell she is an original S. I have got the cotter pin out ok, but there is is 3rd bolt, which is not mentioned in the workshop manual, located at the bottom of the master cylinder housing, located alongside, what I think is the fuel line, making it very tight for room. Perhaps the previous owner had changed the clutch master cylinder at some point, fitting something non standard? Anyways I shall keep on with the job.

I think something must have given way as the clutch peddal appears to just spin around on the push rod, there is a pin, ceased into place, which should lock the pedal onto the pushrod.

P.s Some amazing looking Rover's you all have! I can only hope mine might be among them one day.


Cheers

Pete
 
Hi again Pete,

I'm not sure if your Workshop Manual is the factory one or Haynes, but this is the procedure for the clutch pedal assembly from the Factory Manual:
pedalassemblyinwm.jpg

pedalassemblyinwm02.jpg


Also, the pedal arrangement from the Parts Catalogue:
pedalarrangement.jpg


Hope these may be of help! Let us know how you get on.

Cheers,
 
Redkelpie said:
Hi guys,

thanks heaps for the advice, from what I can tell she is an original S. I have got the cotter pin out ok, but there is is 3rd bolt, which is not mentioned in the workshop manual, located at the bottom of the master cylinder housing,
Click to expand...

If you look at the diagram that vaultsman has posted from the workshop manual, the one adjacent to 30.30.01 and labled IRC260 you'll see how the clutch cylinder fits into the mount. There is no need to remove the mount to get the cylinder out. There are 2 bolts that secure the cylinder to the mount which once removed, along with the clevis pin and hyd fluid line, will allow the cylinder to be removed. When I was doing mine I, like you, thought the mount had to be removed but that is not the case. Have another look from the top (you can just see the 2 bolts in the picture I posted).

Dave
 
Hi Guys,

thanks for your advice offered on the topic I posted last week. I got it! At the time I should have added that it is an original 3500S & that the clutch peddal is not working, hence why I was taking out the unit out which house's the clutch master cylinder, to access the push rod. The clutch peddal goes up & down, however it is not connecting with the pushrod which operates the clutch master cylinder, so the job continues.......

Cheers

Pete
 
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