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Replacing front shocks - any tips?
- Thread starter Franklin
- Start date
The only thing I can think of that causes problems,(and I've seen it done loads of times, even on cars done by so-called "Experts") is the lower mounting. It's easy to get the splitpin in the outer hole, but not so easy to get into the inner one where it should be as that involves compressing the bushes.
Luckily for me I've got the Rover tool. but you can use a long taper type ball joint splitter and lever around the swivel pillar to get the bushes compressed.
Luckily for me I've got the Rover tool. but you can use a long taper type ball joint splitter and lever around the swivel pillar to get the bushes compressed.
All good advice on the split pin. If you get it wrong, in the outer hole instead of the inner, your shocks will rattle maddeningly! There is a further level of fix available for this problem (cos they are still inclined to rattle even if you got the split pin into the inner hole), Alan Ramsbottom does a conversion to upgrade the lower pin on the body to take a nyloc nut fixing, which works much better.
There are quite a lot of different front shock absorber specs. In order of stiffness, 4 cyl, V8 manual steering, V8 power steering and Police/Heavy Duty (much bigger diameter body than the standard); all from the Rover parts catalogue. Then there are the various "pattern" types that are around. Koni Classics (non adjustable) are reckoned to be pretty good, but you'll be lucky if you can find any now, Armstrong Blue Max are awful, but their Red Max adjustables are much better and of course there are the Bee's Knee's AVO adjustables. Or if you know how you want the car to behave I can put you in touch with people who can produce you some valved to suit your requirements.
I believe the reasoning behind the variation on the V8 between power steered and non, was that it was possible to put a much more sudden steering input into a power steered car and therefore you needed a stronger shock to control the front end lurch resulting. The Police Spec shocks go with an altogether stiffer suspension set up - just right for todays roads!
Chris
(PS I think Ian at Rover-Classics may have some Police Spec front dampers left)
There are quite a lot of different front shock absorber specs. In order of stiffness, 4 cyl, V8 manual steering, V8 power steering and Police/Heavy Duty (much bigger diameter body than the standard); all from the Rover parts catalogue. Then there are the various "pattern" types that are around. Koni Classics (non adjustable) are reckoned to be pretty good, but you'll be lucky if you can find any now, Armstrong Blue Max are awful, but their Red Max adjustables are much better and of course there are the Bee's Knee's AVO adjustables. Or if you know how you want the car to behave I can put you in touch with people who can produce you some valved to suit your requirements.
I believe the reasoning behind the variation on the V8 between power steered and non, was that it was possible to put a much more sudden steering input into a power steered car and therefore you needed a stronger shock to control the front end lurch resulting. The Police Spec shocks go with an altogether stiffer suspension set up - just right for todays roads!
Chris
(PS I think Ian at Rover-Classics may have some Police Spec front dampers left)