Side Plates? - What are they and what do they do?
- Thread starter alimorg
- Start date
To save weight the 4 cylinder engine casting has no sides – instead two pressed steel “side plates” are bolted on to seal the water chamber. With the side plates removed you can see the cylinder liners. The reason that these items crop up in postings is that they corrode over time and leak.
Although it is in theory possible to replace these with the engine in situ you need to remove the engine mounts etc and a degree in yoga and a full set of double joints are mandatory. The right hand panel is the most difficult and involved due to the oil pump housing.
Corrosion tends to be due to localized pitting on the inside surface and it is usually possible to repair this using plumbers lead solder after a thorough cleaning and use of a suitable flux. (That is solder as used for lead loading car bodywork and making “wiped” joints in plumbing not that used for soldering wires which is far too fluid.).
Take care as you undo the bolts and studs around the plate as these sometimes seize and can shear off, and will then need drilling out and re-tapping otherwise it will not be possible to obtain a watertight joint. Don’t forget to obtain a new pair of gaskets as well before you start.
Although it is tempting to use “Radweld” or similar to stop small leaks it is not advisable due to the danger of blocking the small waterways in the cylinder head.
It is well worth removing the side plates when overhauling the engine even if they appear sound. The amount of sludge which builds up in there is amazing and cannot do anything to help keep the block cool and I suspect that this sludge is a culprit in the rust pitting problem.
Although it is in theory possible to replace these with the engine in situ you need to remove the engine mounts etc and a degree in yoga and a full set of double joints are mandatory. The right hand panel is the most difficult and involved due to the oil pump housing.
Corrosion tends to be due to localized pitting on the inside surface and it is usually possible to repair this using plumbers lead solder after a thorough cleaning and use of a suitable flux. (That is solder as used for lead loading car bodywork and making “wiped” joints in plumbing not that used for soldering wires which is far too fluid.).
Take care as you undo the bolts and studs around the plate as these sometimes seize and can shear off, and will then need drilling out and re-tapping otherwise it will not be possible to obtain a watertight joint. Don’t forget to obtain a new pair of gaskets as well before you start.
Although it is tempting to use “Radweld” or similar to stop small leaks it is not advisable due to the danger of blocking the small waterways in the cylinder head.
It is well worth removing the side plates when overhauling the engine even if they appear sound. The amount of sludge which builds up in there is amazing and cannot do anything to help keep the block cool and I suspect that this sludge is a culprit in the rust pitting problem.