starting problems

S

steve owens

New Member
hi all.i have a problem with starting my tc.when the key is turned there is a click sound turn it again it clicks again this happens nearly every time i start the car.when it does turn over it is very slow but it does start.am i right that the click is the selonoid.if so is it on its way out, it is fixed to the starter motor.i have searched the forum to no avail.i can live with the problem but with winter round the corner i d rather fix it now.the battery is fully charged and does not lose charge.any ideas on what to check for .cheers steve
 
One thing to try is to remove all connectors to the solenoid and give them a good clean with mild abrasive paper. Worked for me when I had the same problem intermittently.
 
Unless it is a NEW battery, I would try a jump start from another good battery. I have had batteries that seemed to hold a charge, and would run the lights and other functions, but would not have enough power to run the starter motor. If your car strts right up with a jump start, it's the battery.
 
if your solenoid is working ok, I would check the earths on the car, (earthing strap on engine etc) and the neg terminal lead on battery, I had this problem with one of my classic a few years ago, after changing batteries, solenoids, infact 99% of ignition system someone noticed my earth lead was a bit loose, sorted that and car fired up no problem
 
Sounds like a pre engaged starter with a sticky solenoid .Normally they work after a gentle tap with a hammer on the casing. The long term answer is to take it off , clean the solenoid and sliding pinion and while you are at it , you may as well check the brushes. Do not over oil as clutch dust then sticks to the moving bits and stops movement
Dave
 
I agree with Organ Doctor. Your first port of call should be the Battery (& terminals). Starting the car is the hardest thing it has to do & if it's turning over slowly that should ring alarm bells.
 
If you've got a test meter, you can check the battery voltage during cranking, a good fully charged battery shouldn't drop below 12v possibly 11v really.

Its quite common for one cell to fail and you end up with about 12v with no load, but it drops quickly when you apply a heavy load. You should be seeing aroun 13.5v fully charged with no load.

If when starting, the voltage stays high > 13v then the starter isn't giving much of a load, probably a wiring problem. If the voltage drops < 10v then its probably the battery, or a faulty starter giving too heavy a load.

Richard



Edited By webmaster on 1124868193
 
I had to get an auto electrician to sort mine out. I cleaned the starter motor connections, when back to the fuse box, cleaned those, coil.... everything.

It fell down to two things.

1. 'the hole'... a connection in the bulkhead to earth the starter, this picks up dirt very easily, contact cleaner is very good for this. Trace the wiring back to the bulkhead to find this.

2. the battery.... put the lights on and get the voltmeter out, if the volts started to dip... the battery is on the fritz.

Also, check the earth strap from the battery, this can easily not maintain a good connection and is responsible for all sorts of "funny's".
 
update,i have checked the battery and connections every things ok but its still clicking now and then plus it cranks over slowly.on the selonoide i have two cables a thick black cable and a thin red/white cable these are connected to the same terminal.on page 9Q in the manual it shows four terminals mine is connected to the A terminal.before i take the starter off are these wires connected properly.
i am getting desperate to sort this.please help.cheers
 
Steve
I dont have a TC , so cant confirm the wiring - it sounds ok though. Did you disassemble and clean all the connections? Did you do this to the one under the drivers feet?
You dont have those pot type battery clamps (go over top) - if so junk them!
IF all the supply and earth connections have been checked as above, its going to be a component - battery - solinoid or starter.
All the above posts should lead you to the answer.
good luck
 
Hi

I had a similar problem with my 3500.
I changed the solenoid and it helped.

But first you should try to ckeck the voltage on the starter while cranking/(or clicking) it to check if the contact in the solenoid is bad.

The easiest would probably be to fit a new/secondhand starter with solenoid that you know works.

Your wiring sounds ok.
 
what do you mean the wire under the drivers foot?plus if i have several terminals on the selonoide why is there only one used???
 
Again, forgive me if giving wrong info -is your battery in the boot? of so the battery cable runs along the inside of the car and exits uder the drivers foot.
If your battery is in the engine bay then ignore this suggestion.
The other terminals will be there for use in other vehicle applications::O
 
I Agree with Bluman. Sounds like a dodgy Solenoid. I too had the same problem on my 3500. BTW the solenoids on the 2000 starter was the same as the 3500 (at least they are on the series 2) so they are interchangable.
 
have cleaned and checked battery and all leads looks like its the selenoide.what sort of money are they going for and is it better to get the starter motor with it.
cheers steve
 
I paid £35 for a starter motor with solenoid straight out of an old car. I think Ray Weekly does solenoids for about £40.

However, my problems were dirty electrics.

Oddly enough, putting on a new dizzy cap, rotor arm and coil today, I had the exact same problem! The blasted solenoid would not disengage including a few whacks with a heavy spanner.

I think I have sorted it with some judicious spraying of electrical contact cleaner on all the contacts. They do get really filthy down there, only 8 inches off the ground!

I think the whole thing is going to need a good clean up.
 
Weekleys last listed price is £17+vat & postage. Our local auto-electrical shop charges around £12 for them so they're not that pricey.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top