Tie rod hit the inner wheel housing

Thanks for the pictures. That's just how I've been thinking about whether that might be the case. It looks just like my car
Camber is 2,5 deg negative.
Can that be solved only with new bushings do you think?
Castor angle not measured yet.


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I do not think you will shim that amount to the correct spec. IIRC using a stock thickness form A 3/8" plain washer altered the camber by 0.5 deg.
But all cars are likely different.
I think you need to re bush the bell crank and then take another set of measurements.
Regarding compressing the spring. In the Rover Repair Operation Manual, the spring is slightly compressed to fit the three special retainers before the car is lifted up and the wheel is removed. In this forum's post 'A guide to front spring removal and refitment' the spring is compressed after the car is lifted.

My question: Is there any reason that prevents first fitting ordinary spring compressors (se picture) and tighten them slightly, and then jacking up the car? I assume that the work of compressing the spring is thus made easier, rather than doing the opposite?

Note that I will reassemble the spring in its compressed state. Thus, I will not loosen the spring tensioners (which probably are shorter than the free length of the spring) once the spring has been detached from the car.


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