Water Pump Removal

[vaultsman]

Hi everyone,

Not a new problem I know, but I've got 3 of the long bolts solidly seized. I've given them a good soaking with WD40 and got the blowlamp on them but they still refuse to budge! And I've managed to slightly round off one of them in the process! :evil: :evil: :evil:

I'm off to get some pukka penetrating oil, but does anyone have any other tips? I could get a bit better access to the heads if the nose of the pump were off - does this come straight off the shaft with a puller?

Assuming I end up shearing them, what're people's views on removal?

Stan

 

[harveyp6]

Those bolts are a pain, and turn what should be an easy job into an ordeal if they seize, which is normally because they haven't been coated with the same sealer as used on the head bolts. One bolt goes straight into the water jacket so no surprises that seizes. Careful use of heat normally gets them out. Hex sockets aviod the rounding off issue.

If they do snap, then the timing cover has to come off and the remains drilled out and either re-tapped or helicoiled.

 

[vaultsman]

Crikey...that was a right b****r! Successfully off though & no "snaps"..plenty of Plus Gas & heat made the difference

Know what you mean about hex drive though Harvey..mine are bi-hex..resorted to a 12mm ring "persuaded" over the rounded one.

Front cover will be coming off though..timing set to do over the winter. So..more queries coming up soon then!

Cheers,

Stan

 

[westOz74P6B]

I have got my pump and timing cover off at the moment, and as I like to do, is run a tap (nice new tap which takes a clean cut of the threads) down all the threads, anyway while cleaning out the holes (compressed air) noticed (as harveyp6 mentioned) that one goes through into the water jacket, so what I will investigate is to make (or buy if available) some stainless steel studs in place of those long (4 off) bolts which I can then put sealant on the block threads (I like to use the Loctite Master Gasket sealant athough they also do a ptfe thred sealant in a tube which is also good) to stop any future water ingress, but then again when properly sealed they wouldn't have to be stainless, I'll see whats available and which way i go and report back on this thread. You also get a better torque/tension with studs at this critical water jacket area instead of having to screw/twist the bolts and turn in the threads at the same time (if you know what I mean) wheras a stud applies just linear tension while the nut end is being tightened. And any future water pump change there won't be any need to disturb treads in the block (thats the theory anyway). just thinking may even use loctite studloc to seal the threads?

p.s it starded out as fit new steel timing gears and roller chain and has progressed to heads off and head rebuilds (rest is ok) but at least with new gasket set and back together eventually, I'll know where I am.

Regards,

 

[vaultsman]

I have got my pump and timing cover off at the moment, and as I like to do, is run a tap (nice new tap which takes a clean cut of the threads) down all the threads, anyway while cleaning out the holes (compressed air) noticed (as harveyp6 mentioned) that one goes through into the water jacket, so what I will investigate is to make (or buy if available) some stainless steel studs in place of those long (4 off) bolts which I can then put sealant on the block threads (I like to use the Loctite Master Gasket sealant athough they also do a ptfe thred sealant in a tube which is also good) to stop any future water ingress, but then again when properly sealed they wouldn't have to be stainless, I'll see whats available and which way i go and report back on this thread. You also get a better torque/tension with studs at this critical water jacket area instead of having to screw/twist the bolts and turn in the threads at the same time (if you know what I mean) wheras a stud applies just linear tension while the nut end is being tightened. And any future water pump change there won't be any need to disturb treads in the block (thats the theory anyway). just thinking may even use loctite studloc to seal the threads?

Hi Scott, interesting thoughts. I'll be using stainless too when the pump goes back on,something along these lines:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-P5...27379QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

p.s it starded out as fit new steel timing gears and roller chain and has progressed to heads off and head rebuilds (rest is ok) but at least with new gasket set and back together eventually, I'll know where I am.

And like you, my winter plan seems to have expanded from the timing set too to include taller oil pump gears. Also have a pair of 3.9 heads on the way to me that'll keep me busy.

Stan

 

[westOz74P6B]

Thanks for that Stan, I still would prefer studs rather than bolts for the reasons I mentioned earlier for the long bolts, I know some brackets utilise these bolts as well (mine does for the power steering bracket) which may make using studs awkward but then again these brackets need to be moved out of the way to get the water pump off anyway (and I'll look at making this p/s bracket locate at other points). Still its all about improving on the original mass produced cheapness which is built in on the assembly line if we are willing to bear the extra costs that is. So I'll see what i come up with in the meantime while the car is off the road for a bit.

Regards,

 

[arthuy]

My top tip for the long bolts would be to cut the head of them.

Once the bolts are out and the seized bolts have the heads cut off you will be able to tap the timing cover off gently.

Once the timing cover is off and the remaining bolts are exposed are doused in wd40. Get a monkey wrench close to the threaded end and gently apply pressure and It should come out.

I think one of the problems with the long bolts is that they bolts seize inside the timing case.

Colin

 

[vaultsman]

My top tip for the long bolts would be to cut the head of them.

Once the bolts are out and the seized bolts have the heads cut off you will be able to tap the timing cover off gently.

Once the timing cover is off and the remaining bolts are exposed are doused in wd40. Get a monkey wrench close to the threaded end and gently apply pressure and It should come out.

I think one of the problems with the long bolts is that they bolts seize inside the timing case.

Colin

Spot on Colin, that was going to be my next move..but luckily..I got lucky!

Stan

 

[unstable load]

Hi Scott, interesting thoughts. I'll be using stainless too when the pump goes back on

Stainless steel and Aluminium with water flowing past means corrosion issues. Be careful how you proceed and use lots of Never-Seez or similar.

From Wikipedia.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_alloy

Galvanic corrosion can be rapid when aluminium alloy is placed in electrical contact with stainless steel, or other metals with a more negative corrosion potential than the aluminium alloy, in a wet environment. Aluminium alloy and stainless steel parts should only be used together in water-containing systems or outdoor installations if provision is made for either electrical or electrolytic isolation between the two metals.