ZF Questions

keanej

keanej

New Member
Hopefully Harvey will be able to give me a steer with these questions

1. Not sure of the origin for the gearbox, is it possible to find out ?

Casing number H31043401484, Serial No 3899911, Specification No 1043010129 4HP22

I need a dip stick / tube and cooling pipes so would help in getting the right ones

2. There is no rotary switch on the box ( suspect it might have come from a Jag as they had the inhibitor in the gear leaver on some models)

However other cars did have a 3 position rotary switch, is it as simple as getting say a BMW swicth and using that ?

3. The box came with fly wheel and spacers, is this the correct order ?

DSC01267.JPG
 
I'm not too familiar with the ZF box in all its guises, having had just the one from a Sherpa V8, but from what I remember the flexplates and spacers look to be in the correct order. I'd need a picture of the box you've got that goes with them to be of any more help.
 
Well after months of inactivity I finally got around to lifting the engine & box out today.

On the good side the rear crank oil seal is the new type, so will be an easy change - it had started to leak a little.

On the down side the flex plate and spacers I have aren't the right ones - they only have 4 widely spaced bolt holes and the V8 crank has 6 closely space holes !.

The box and bell housing are the correct one for the V8, so all I can think is the chap who sold me the box must have got these mixed up with another setup. So now begins the search for the correct fly wheel & flexi plate.

EDIT Update - Now I'm confused - on ebay a Range Rover classic flex plate is pictured just like the one I have - so did the crank / fly wheel bolt pattern change on the V8 at some time or am I missing a part that converts from a 6 bolt crank to 4 bolts on the fly wheel ?
 
keanej said:
EDIT Update - Now I'm confused - on ebay a Range Rover classic flex plate is pictured just like the one I have - so did the crank / fly wheel bolt pattern change on the V8 at some time or am I missing a part that converts from a 6 bolt crank to 4 bolts on the fly wheel ?
Click to expand...

When I bought the Sherpa ZF box I had it was missing the crank adaptor, and I got one from a mate of mine who works on Range/Land Rovers and it was a standard Rangie part. The bolt pattern on the crank is the same, and there are 6 allen bolts holding the adaptor to the crank, (which are a right PITA to get out) and then 4 bolts hold the two flexplates to the adaptor. That's it as far as I remember.
 
Thanks Harvey - thought I was losing the plot there for a bit - the spacer in my picture has 4 bolt holes and the end is too big to fit into the crank - so I assume this goes onto the bit I am missing. I may email some of the ebay sellers to see if they have the bit I am missing for sale
 
Yes you are missing the part that directly bolts to the crank, and that was what I was missing, not the spacer shown in your pic. It must be at least 3 years since I sold it all, I'd forotten exactly what I had to get, and I've not really had many other dealings with them. Any Rangie place that does s/h spares should have one, providing they can get the allen bolts out that hold it to the crank.
 
I rang around a few 4x4 breakers today and one of them had the spigot converter on the shelf for £30 so I'll get that off them tomorrow.

Thought i'd take a snap of both the Type 65 and ZF box along side each other - only about a 1/4 inch difference in length.

DSC01328.JPG
 
Can't believe I posted that in April !

Well progress is slow, however I have the engine and gear box in the car ( for the second time )

On 1st attempt the existing gearbox mounts foul the ZF tail so the engine/box had to come out so I could remove them with an angle grinder

DSC01391.JPG



Having got the engine/box back in the next problem was the bell housing pressing against the tunnel and pushing the prop shaft to far over to the passenger side of the car.

DSC01395.JPG


So I removed the fins off the bell housing behind the starter motor ( none on the BW65 ) and bent the tunnel into the drivers foot well, for some reason it sticks out there so a big lever and it pushed in quite easily.

I now have the prop aligned correctly and about 3/4" space between the side of the bell housing and tunnel - Can some one with a 3500 Auto take a photo from underneath looking forward at the starter motor area so I can compare the gap ( should have done this before I started !!!! )

The top of the bell housing is very close to the accelerator bar, although I hope it will be OK, and touching the brake pipe which I'll need to reroute
 
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