Recent content by malreid

I has st/st on my 2200TC, lovely crisp sound and will last forever:D

I has st/st on my 2200TC, lovely crisp sound and will last forever:D

Check the rear upper valance panel for any looseness. For such a small panel they can make a lot of niose if the bolts are not tight. Somtimes they rattle, sometimes they buzz.

Check the rear upper valance panel for any looseness. For such a small panel they can make a lot of niose if the bolts are not tight. Somtimes they rattle, sometimes they buzz.

Check that steering idler is securely bolted down. But if it is more of a loud "click" than a dull "clonk", check that welds on the lower link mounting bracket haven't started to crack. And make sure that the torsion bar is properly located in the bracket, although this makes more of a "tink"...

See if you can get your hands on a copy of the regulations and find out what the official line is. I had a problem with the reverse light switch in my SD1, broken and no new ones available and they failed it on the WOF (I'm in NZ). So I did a bit of homework and according to the official...

Scotts Old Auto Rubber in Australia do all sorts of stuff for the P6. www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

I'm pretty sure that the exhaust valves for the 2200 and 2000 are the same. Either way new/good exhaust valves are much rarer than hens teeth in this part of the world (Oz/NZ).

I'm pretty sure that the exhaust valves for the 2200 and 2000 are the same. Either way new/good exhaust valves are much rarer than hens teeth in this part of the world (Oz/NZ).

Yep. At the rear of the head there is a rubber o-ring that seals the oil gallery to the camshaft. If the head gasket starts to go and the o-ring with it, you'll get this mixture at the back end of the head/block join. But before removing the head, take a couple of minutes to check your heater...

Yep. At the rear of the head there is a rubber o-ring that seals the oil gallery to the camshaft. If the head gasket starts to go and the o-ring with it, you'll get this mixture at the back end of the head/block join. But before removing the head, take a couple of minutes to check your heater...

Or an older (60's?) Sidchrome 1/2" drive socket. Even then a tight fit and you have to get the angle right or the socket binds on the casting.

If your car's been sitting for a while all the petrol will evaporate from the carb's so you need to crank a while with a mechanical to refill them. With an electric pump you can prime the carb's by turning on the ignition for a 10-15 seconds before cranking. hen you'll have fuel is ready and...

Or see if you get your hands on a deep socket or box spanner.

@BB, excellent idea. Will try that and see how things compare.