What is the best order in which to disassemble the body parts?

F

Frederick Cahn

New Member
Finally got the long term F100 project out the door and ready to start teardown on the 70 3500S. Everything is coming off and the drivetrain is coming out. I have all the manuals, factory and civilian, but, before I start to turn wrenches, I would like to ask where do the pros start? What is the best order to remove body panels, doors, bonnet, and boot lid? Any advice on not snapping bolts and getting into tight spaces?

I have found the PPPPPP system works best, hence the question. (Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance).

Thanks to all for any advice!
 
Personally I do bumpers first because they go through the valances, then the valances, boot lid, wings, decker panels, doors. The bonnet is unwieldy and best done with two people, it can be done first or last depending of if you have somewhere safe to store it.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Personally I do bumpers first because they go through the valances, then the valances, boot lid, wings, decker panels, doors. The bonnet is unwieldy and best done with two people, it can be done first or last depending of if you have somewhere safe to store it.

Colin
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Invaluable information. Thank you, Sir.
 
Make sure you have sufficient storage space ready. some panels need more care than others - eg storing bonnet upright, cushion the the rear corners. If the paint is not being redone, cushion the outer door skins with old blankets or sheets. With the bumpers take care not to scratch the fenders/wings at the wrap arounds. Maybe go around all the panel screws that are exposed with penetrating fluid - front wings to valance, rear wings to valance, sill panel screws. Some unbolt the door check straps from the door, rather than prise the cap off the pin on the base. Take a note of the sequence of fit at the fuel filler neck - where the grommet fits. Drain the fuel tank. 2 people for bonnet/hood and boot/trunk is advised. In case any fixed nuts give trouble get a set of imperial thread chasers - Lang do a very good set (amazon) of UNF and UNC. Using taps is not recommended.
 
jp928 said:
Make sure you have sufficient storage space ready. some panels need more care than others - eg storing bonnet upright, cushion the the rear corners. If the paint is not being redone, cushion the outer door skins with old blankets or sheets. With the bumpers take care not to scratch the fenders/wings at the wrap arounds. Maybe go around all the panel screws that are exposed with penetrating fluid - front wings to valance, rear wings to valance, sill panel screws. Some unbolt the door check straps from the door, rather than prise the cap off the pin on the base. Take a note of the sequence of fit at the fuel filler neck - where the grommet fits. Drain the fuel tank. 2 people for bonnet/hood and boot/trunk is advised. In case any fixed nuts give trouble get a set of imperial thread chasers - Lang do a very good set (amazon) of UNF and UNC. Using taps is not recommended.
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Thanks JP! While this is far from my first rodeo; this is my first P6 project and I picked up some great information in your reply. I hear you about protecting all the parts; always a hassle and negligence can lead to significant cost increases.

I have been at all exposed bolts etc. with some sort of penetrating fluids. For larger items I have found that, if sufficient time is allowed, Fluid Film works wonders.

Got it on the door straps - very helpful. Likewise, filler neck info - would have missed that one.

I am going to do a detailed inspection on the tank. Many previous miseries have resulted from failing to do so.

This one got me - Imperial Thread? Ay Caramba! But, then I realized all is well. Not Whitworth...nor metric.
 
" 2 people for bonnet/hood and boot/trunk is advised. "

Wimps! Though to be fair, the bonnet is a handful if you’re on the shorter side.

Yours
Vern
 
Vern Klukas said:
" 2 people for bonnet/hood and boot/trunk is advised. "

Wimps! Though to be fair, the bonnet is a handful if you’re on the shorter side.

Yours
Vern
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For me its more the ungainliness when undoing the hinge bolts. Being aluminium I'm very aware it will dent easily.
 
Be aware that the bootlid is easily damaged. When you undo the bolts, do not let it rest on the hinges as it will dent.
 
quattro said:
Be aware that the bootlid is easily damaged. When you undo the bolts, do not let it rest on the hinges as it will dent.
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...And the length of the bolts on re-assembly, if too long they can dimple the skin. They are a specific length.
 
Filler neck is front of mind for me, as I just replaced the grommet there - old one holed, letting water straight into the boot.
 
colnerov said:
...And the length of the bolts on re-assembly, if too long they can dimple the skin. They are a specific length.
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Colnerov is quite right. Don't mix the bolts for the boot hinges up, as dimpling your freshly repainted boot lid on refitting is extremely annoying! I speak from experience.
 
Remember when removing the doors to only move ONE adjuster (usually the bottom one), so that when you refit them the original position is retained - disconnect the restraining strap, disconnect any speaker wires present, undo the locknut on the bottom hinge pin, screw it downwards with somebody steadying the door, lift the door off the top hinge and away.
 
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