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I has st/st on my 2200TC, lovely crisp sound and will last forever:D

I has st/st on my 2200TC, lovely crisp sound and will last forever:D

Check the rear upper valance panel for any looseness. For such a small panel they can make a lot of niose if the bolts are not tight. Somtimes they rattle, sometimes they buzz.

Check the rear upper valance panel for any looseness. For such a small panel they can make a lot of niose if the bolts are not tight. Somtimes they rattle, sometimes they buzz.

Check that steering idler is securely bolted down. But if it is more of a loud "click" than a dull "clonk", check that welds on the lower link mounting bracket haven't started to crack. And make sure that the torsion bar is properly located in the bracket, although this makes more of a "tink"...

See if you can get your hands on a copy of the regulations and find out what the official line is. I had a problem with the reverse light switch in my SD1, broken and no new ones available and they failed it on the WOF (I'm in NZ). So I did a bit of homework and according to the official...

Scotts Old Auto Rubber in Australia do all sorts of stuff for the P6. www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

I'm pretty sure that the exhaust valves for the 2200 and 2000 are the same. Either way new/good exhaust valves are much rarer than hens teeth in this part of the world (Oz/NZ).

I'm pretty sure that the exhaust valves for the 2200 and 2000 are the same. Either way new/good exhaust valves are much rarer than hens teeth in this part of the world (Oz/NZ).

Yep. At the rear of the head there is a rubber o-ring that seals the oil gallery to the camshaft. If the head gasket starts to go and the o-ring with it, you'll get this mixture at the back end of the head/block join. But before removing the head, take a couple of minutes to check your heater...

Yep. At the rear of the head there is a rubber o-ring that seals the oil gallery to the camshaft. If the head gasket starts to go and the o-ring with it, you'll get this mixture at the back end of the head/block join. But before removing the head, take a couple of minutes to check your heater...

Or an older (60's?) Sidchrome 1/2" drive socket. Even then a tight fit and you have to get the angle right or the socket binds on the casting.

If your car's been sitting for a while all the petrol will evaporate from the carb's so you need to crank a while with a mechanical to refill them. With an electric pump you can prime the carb's by turning on the ignition for a 10-15 seconds before cranking. hen you'll have fuel is ready and...

Or see if you get your hands on a deep socket or box spanner.

@BB, excellent idea. Will try that and see how things compare.

Money? :laugh:

I'm in NZ and currently bleeding my wallet dry for 98 octane. I have notcied a smoother idle when I've thrown in some booster as well. Will put the stobe on and have a play tomorrow if I get the chance. But I have heard that the timing marks on the front pully can be out. The balancer moves or...

Hmmm. Yes I've noticed choke can go in to fast idle almost straight away. Any tips on how to get the timing just right other than advancing to peak engine speed and then backing it off and doing the old 30mph in 4th pinking test?

I think no.1 plug is faulty to start with. Start the engine on choke and leave running for about two minutes while clearing the screens and no.1 will soot up and drop out altogether. Big juicy blue spark at the plug, so I'll swap it for no.2 and see what happens. Doesn't soot up if driven...

I'm driving a 10.5:1 'S' with 5 speed 'box and the standard twin SU's. Most of my driving is around town at 50-80km/h and I'm getting only 17-18mpg on average. It doesn't seem to matter how the car is driven. Carb's are in good condition, as is ignition, plugs leads etc. Air filters are about...

I fitted my 2.2tc with a stainless steel rear silencer and tailpipe. Gave it a lovely 'crisp' sound without being over the top.

If you have an S already it's reasonably straight forward. The exhaust should be OK as is, maybe need to rearrange the mounting bracket. The tunnel requires a little use of a large hammer or pressing, the driveshaft gets lengthened or shortened slightly (can't remember which). You need to use...

If you have an S already it's reasonably straight forward. The exhaust should be OK as is, maybe need to rearrange the mounting bracket. The tunnel requires a little use of a large hammer or pressing, the driveshaft gets lengthened or shortened slightly (can't remember which). You need to use...

If you have an S already it's reasonably straight forward. The exhaust should be OK as is, maybe need to rearrange the mounting bracket. The tunnel requires a little use of a large hammer or pressing, the driveshaft gets lengthened or shortened slightly (can't remember which). You need to use...

I've been told they are different, the 3500 diff has a different of "spiders", whatever those may be (my knowlege only extends from the fan to the clutch...)