1969 2000 TC leaking diff

Richard Zahra

Richard Zahra

Member
Hi,
I have noticed that the passenger side rear brake disc is covered in gear oil and suspect that the oil seal has failed. The differential is not overfilled and the breather isn't blocked. The differential has never been opened up. My questions are:
Can I replace the seals without removing the diff?
Can I simply unbolt the half shafts , remove the discs and access the oil seals?
I keep reading that a collar needs to be replaced. Is this only required if replacing the bearing?
if required, are these collars still available?
Apart from oil seals, lock tabs, and brake pads , what else needs replacing?

Thanks in advance

Regards
Richard
 
If you unbolt the half shafts and discs you then need to unbolt the 4 driveshaft bolts (9/16")
Once off and cleaned up you will see the O ring oil seal (unless it remained stuck to the diff) that has failed.
There is a metal retaining ring which sits recessed in the driveshaft inner flange with which the O ring forms the seal.
If you're desperate and don't have the correct O ring you could probably re-use the old one with some oil resistant liquid gasket compound.
Jim
 
The "O" ring isn't the seal that's leaking. You need to remove the output shaft and housing as detailed above, then press the collar off the shaft, and the shaft out of the housing, then you can get at the seal. Collars are supposed to be one use only, but new ones are available. Be careful pressing it all apart as it is possible to break the housing.
 
Richard Zahra said:
Hi,
I have noticed that the passenger side rear brake disc is covered in gear oil and suspect that the oil seal has failed. The differential is not overfilled and the breather isn't blocked. The differential has never been opened up. My questions are:
Can I replace the seals without removing the diff?
Can I simply unbolt the half shafts , remove the discs and access the oil seals?
I keep reading that a collar needs to be replaced. Is this only required if replacing the bearing?
if required, are these collars still available?
Apart from oil seals, lock tabs, and brake pads , what else needs replacing?

Thanks in advance

Regards
Richard
Click to expand...

im sure u would do this as u mentioned pads but I would replace the disks while you are there. You could decontaminate them if needed I guess but depending on the state of them it might be one of those jobs that u might as well do while its apart.
hope this helps
coop
 
oops halfway there :)
I've done a couple where the O ring had failed and it seemed to cure the leak.
But the leak in those circumstances was between housing and main casing and I've just re-read the original post.
So when the main seal goes the leak comes down the shaft and gets thrown up onto the disc?
Jim
 
Thanks for your replies. I will order the parts and have a go. The discs are still in good nick with no signs of wear. The car has only 57000 miles . I had another look at the car and most probably will drop the diff and replace the front oil seal as well. The calipers were replaced around 4 years ago so hopefully do not need any attention.

Richard
 
Hi all ,
is the following description right for the collars that need to be removed and replaced when replacing the drive shaft oil seals?
"ROVER P6 REAR AXLE THRUST COLLAR FOR BEARING 533564" Is 533564 the part number for the collars?
I haven't yet managed to find a set, does anyone know who might have these? Thanks for your help.

Regards
Richard
 
Richard Zahra said:
is the following description right for the collars that need to be removed and replaced when replacing the drive shaft oil seals?
"ROVER P6 REAR AXLE THRUST COLLAR FOR BEARING 533564" Is 533564 the part number for the collars?
Click to expand...

Correct.


Richard Zahra said:
I haven't yet managed to find a set, does anyone know who might have these? Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

All you can do is try all the specialist suppliers to see if they have any. I don't think they have been remanufactured yet, so it would be NOS.
 
Hi,
some 4 years ago I bought some parts from Dr Mark Whitton. Does anyone know if he still operates as I can find nothing on the web?

regards
Richard
 
Thanks for the schematic diagram, I have the tools to make it myself so that is easy. Do you know if the material is a steel alloy or a bronze alloy? Thanks again

Regards
Richard
 
They are steel, although I have no idea what grade/type. According to Rover they had to be replaced after being pressed off as they stretched. I think you could re-use them once without problems, but at this point in time you have no way of knowing if they have been re-used before, and if so, how many times. You don't need to put the 4 grooves on the end face as these became obsolete.
 
Thanks,
will keep you updated on how it goes. Fortunately for me I have a way of knowing if they have been used before since the car was bought new by my Dad and all work carried out from day 1 has been diligently noted down by him!

regards
Richard
 
Richard Zahra said:
Fortunately for me I have a way of knowing if they have been used before since the car was bought new by my Dad and all work carried out from day 1 has been diligently noted down by him!
Click to expand...

In that case, if they haven't been removed/refitted before, I doubt you'd have problems if you did that now, providing you press them off and on correctly.
 
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