A 'gentle' rebuild of my 3500

adamjack said:
Well done Mike ,I had similar problems with my linkage ,it has made a big difference :)
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I have instant throttle response now :D . The problem with so much slack is by the time you have floored the throttle you haven't got the carbs fully open.
 
Hi Mike,
Happy to see you've sorted the slack linkage, sounds like next time we travel some where together I may have a job passing you :wink:
Keep up the improvements :D
 
v8guy said:
Hi Mike,
Happy to see you've sorted the slack linkage, sounds like next time we travel some where together I may have a job passing you :wink:
Keep up the improvements :D
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:LOL: somehow I think I will need to do a lot more to keep up with you!
 
I've been taking my time refurbishing the Vitesse alloys I bought, mainly due to the fact it's been a litte chilly in my garage. I have started the first wheel and have managed to remove the paint and polished the rim, all that's left is to remove what gold paint is left in the spokes before priming and painting. Once that's done only three more to do :roll:

Here are a few pictures so show the progress made.


image by mikeyp78, on Flickr

Before

image by mikeyp78, on Flickr

After

image by mikeyp78, on Flickr
 
Yes, looking good & I prefer the silver to the gold. It's not just the money your saving - satisfaction of doing it yourself plus having the time to do a proper job :) .
 
I have finally sorted all my cooling issues :D

Having replaced the rad, thermostat, changed the coolant and fitted an expansion tank I was fairly confident that my overheating was gone despite a temperature gauge still sitting at the top of the green. I managed to buy myself an IR temperature probe from Aldi for £19.99 and used it to confirm the actual engine temp and lo and behold it was was fluctuating between 85 and 87 degrees :D
So the final thing to change was the sender, which I suspected being an SD1 type as I had been informed that this doesn't work properly with a P6 gauge. I ordered a replacement for £7 and spent two minutes fitting it and took the car for a test drive and what do you know, it now sits bang in the centre :D I even noticed the gauge creep up then drop as I presume the stat owned up, so I am now one very happy camper.

Other jobs done this week was to re-adjust the front doors and lower my bonnet. The doors had been adjusted by myself to stop water leaks but to be honest the leaks were never that bad and I am prepared to live with them in order to get straight panel lines. The bonnet however had washers packed under the hinges so it didn't foul on the wipers but not only did I now have a massive gap down the sides but the bonnet tended to catch too match air on the motorway and flap quite worryingly :? So I removed the washers and will put up with the wipers catching when you open the bonnet.

All in all the car does look much better for the adjustments, the only one I can't seem to sort is the gap between the front of the passenger door and front wing. The gap is massive but the door has no shims on the hinges so I can't see how I can bring the door forward. I wonder if the wing has some fore and aft adjustment?
 
Mike, I have yet to sort my running hot. I have 2 senders, one struggles to get into the green, one tries to climb out of the red. Now I have my seat back from the trimmers I will be doing the digital temp tests to see which/or both are lying. I have also changed all the other likely culprits, and added a header tank, and have yet another new sender which I hope takes the mean average!



John.
 
Mikep wrote,...
So I removed the washers and will put up with the wipers catching when you open the bonnet.
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Hi Mike,

The bonnet shouldn't catch on the wipers when you open it, so something needs some adjusting :wink:

There is some adjustment with location of the front guard, but it is rather limited. If you remove the guard, you will see a bracket attached to the base unit in front of the front door. A pin on the rear of the guard locates into this bracket, so the both the height and fore/aft location can be fine tuned. Make sure that the pin is sitting square and is firmly attached with no washers between it and where it attaches to the guard.

Ron.
 
Update on my temperature gauge, as I said earlier the gauge now reads perfectly BUT it appears that when the headlights are on it rises right to the top of the green and slowly drops back down when they are off :? However it did settle back down of its own accord at one point but rose again! Could this be a bad earth or something more complicated.
I will say that before I changed the sender I wasn't aware of this because it always sat at the top, clearly the sender was faulty but since changing it it has now highlighted this problem.


SydneyRoverP6B said:
Mikep wrote,...
So I removed the washers and will put up with the wipers catching when you open the bonnet.
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Hi Mike,

The bonnet shouldn't catch on the wipers when you open it, so something needs some adjusting :wink:
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The funny thing is Ron everyone I have spoken to at various meets have wipers that foul the bonnet! Must be a UK thing :LOL:

v8guy said:
Good job on the wheel Mike its coming up well, your almost there
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Cheers Guy, the only thing is its a right sod to strip the old paint in between the spokes so I may get them blasted for £20 per wheel, at least it will give me avoid base to paint.
 
You can adjust the height of the wiper spindles by packing them with washer underneath and this will pull the bosses away from the bonnet edge.
 
testrider said:
You can adjust the height of the wiper spindles by packing them with washer underneath and this will pull the bosses away from the bonnet edge.
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Richard Cleal mentioned this, I think it would only need a couple of washers to do this. Thanks Paul :)
 
You're certainly working through the car's maladies very quickly, Mike! The fitment of an expansion tank is something that I'll certainly do to my P6 at some point this year. In terms of panel fit, a P6 with neatly aligned panels always looks fantastic! I've never plucked up the courage to do anything to mine in this regard. I do need to adjust the bootlid, as the gap is pretty large on one side, and ideally, I'd like to adjust the bonnet slightly, as it rubs against the tops of the front doors, which is irritating!
I look forward to seeing the completion of your alloy wheels.
 
Mikep said:
Update on my temperature gauge, as I said earlier the gauge now reads perfectly BUT it appears that when the headlights are on it rises right to the top of the green and slowly drops back down when they are off :?
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When the temperature guage is doing that, see what the fuel guage is doing at the same time. It may be a voltage stabiliser problem.
 
FrazzleTC said:
You're certainly working through the car's maladies very quickly, Mike! The fitment of an expansion tank is something that I'll certainly do to my P6 at some point this year. In terms of panel fit, a P6 with neatly aligned panels always looks fantastic! I've never plucked up the courage to do anything to mine in this regard. I do need to adjust the bootlid, as the gap is pretty large on one side, and ideally, I'd like to adjust the bonnet slightly, as it rubs against the tops of the front doors, which is irritating!
I look forward to seeing the completion of your alloy wheels.
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Thanks Fraser, but its seems that when you solve one problem another one appears, but that doesn't bother me as I enjoy working on the car.

harveyp6 said:
Mikep said:
Update on my temperature gauge, as I said earlier the gauge now reads perfectly BUT it appears that when the headlights are on it rises right to the top of the green and slowly drops back down when they are off :?
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When the temperature guage is doing that, see what the fuel guage is doing at the same time. It may be a voltage stabiliser problem.
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I had read this before Harvey, it is something I didn't really notice when I was out in the car but next time I'm in the car I shall pay a bit more attention. Would I be right by saying if there is a voltage stabilistaion issue it would be down to a voltage regulator situated behind the instrument binnacle?
 
harveyp6 said:
Mikep said:
Would I be right by saying if there is a voltage stabilistaion issue it would be down to a voltage regulator situated behind the instrument binnacle?
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Correct.

See here:

http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/images/ ... es_jpg.htm


BMK1539 looks to be the kiddie.
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Thanks Harvey. However IF the fuel gauge doesn't behave abnormally, which it never has, could the regulator still be at fault or would I be looking at checking my earths?
 
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