Alternator packed up now!

P

phil

New Member
Hi, Can anyone please advise of a source of an alternator that I won't need a remortgage for? I have already spent about £500 on it this month alone! I don't begrudge it this spending, it is old I was just hoping I could spread the cost a bit more than all at once!
 
Hello Phil,

Brushes and / or voltage regulator are the likely problem areas, both of which you can buy and fit yourself. Have a look at my thread over in the "Electrical section" titled 18ACR Alternator Brush Replacement.

Ron.
 
Does it have the early or late wiring connectors on the alternator?

I bought a brand new late connector one for my 74 P6B, and then scrapped the car a few months later. Been in the shed for the last two years.. cost about £80 new, so willing to sell for a lot less.
 
Phil

That will be a Lucas 11AC then.

You should also have the 4TR in the passenger glove box and the 3AW warning light relay in the driver's side glovebox. Your alternator will have separate connectors for each wire rather than a plug containing them all. There's one on eBay just now with 2 days left to run.

Lucas 11AC alternator

Dave
 
Thanks, i am watching that. Will bid. I ordered a used one from one of the Rover parts suppliers and paid a premium to have it delivered today... I use my P6 daily and need it for work.. Anyway it didn't turn up so I managed to hunt a bloke down who is breaking a P6 on ebay and went to collect it this evening so fingers crossed that should tide me over for a bit..
 
Hi, just for the record, I am checking this right, aren't I??
Connecting my voltmeter to the terminal on the back of the alternator( thick brown and White wire) I am getting 12.6v engine off and engine running 12.2v. Alternator faulty? Right not regulator? The alternator I bought yesterday doesnt work either and I am thinking this is too much of a coincidence.


2439d79c.jpg
 
Phil

Have a look here for some good fault finding info on the Lucas 11AC. For a very basic system they they can be a real bugger to fault find. I would suspect that if the symptoms are the same after changing the alternator then the 4TR is the next thing to go for. Unless of course the replacement alternator is also faulty, as happened to me :? The voltage on the back of the alternator certainly shouldn't drop with the engine running!

Dave
 
Hello Phil,

I mentioned to you a few days ago on your oil pressure thread that your ammeter was showing a discharge. Unless your gauge is faulty, that points to your alternator not returning the current that is being drawn by the system when in operation. You can test your alternator by measuring the voltage across the battery,..ie between +ve and -ve. With the engine off measure the voltage. With it idling measure it and then put headlights inc highbeams on, measure it again. Now increase engine revs..1500, 2000rpm while measuring the voltage across the battery. If it does not increase as the engine is revved, you have found the problem!

Ron.
 
That will tell you whether it's charging or not, but with an 11AC system as this one is, that doesn't mean that it's the alternator, it could be the 4TR, or even the warning light control if the light isn't working. (Or the 6RA, forgot that, see Dave3066's link)
 
Gee that makes life somewhat more difficult doesn't it! I assume that is why Rover changed to the 18ACR system. Much simpler.

Ron.
 
Well my test clearly was meaningless. I found a voltage regulator in the handful of spares given to me by the blokes I bought the car off and thought I would give it a try, for a laugh... It cured it so I am the proud :?: owner of no less than three 11AC alternators.
 
harveyp6 said:
That will tell you whether it's charging or not, but with an 11AC system as this one is, that doesn't mean that it's the alternator, it could be the 4TR, or even the warning light control if the light isn't working. (Or the 6RA, forgot that, see Dave3066's link)
Click to expand...

Ah yes, but not all 11AC systems have a 6RA fitted either. Mine doesn't, as the functionality of the 6RA was later incorporated into the ignition switch (think you taught me that one Harvey :D )

phil said:
Well my test clearly was meaningless. I found a voltage regulator in the handful of spares given to me by the blokes I bought the car off and thought I would give it a try, for a laugh... It cured it so I am the proud :?: owner of no less than three 11AC alternators.
Click to expand...

Phil

Don't be so hard on yourself. Like I said the 11AC is a bugger of a system to fault find on. Best way to fix it is to systematically replace each component in turn until it works again (provided whatever is faulty doesn't keep taking out the good components you're substituting in :wink: ) Your test wasn't completely meaningless as it proved the alternator was not charging. So you definitely had a fault. Glad it's fixed now though :D

Just out of interest, as Ron pointed out, as your ammeter was showing discharge on the oil pressure thread was the ignition light on when the fault was present? If not then your 3AW warning light relay is also faulty. There is a test to check that in the Lucas manual too :D

Dave
 
Hi, the ammeter shows a discharge when the engine is off so I think the needle is just out of alignment. However since fitting another alternator and regulator the battery light comes on at idle so goodness knows which component is faulty now.
 
Hi Phil.

That's just about possible for a working system. If you've got your tickover set nice and low, as we've been training you, It's entirely possible that an 11AC system won't chatge at tickover. Does the light go out cleanly as you rev the engine?

Chris
 
Yes, the light goes out instantly, when revved up. It was never on at idle with the old alternator.. I have idle turned right down. I won't damage anything, will I by having it too low.. (It is an automatic.)
How much does it generally cost to get an alternator overhalled? As I have three now, am I likely to perhaps make some money back if I pay to have them overhalled and sell them?
 
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