Alternator / Regulator Replacement.

P6-SI

New Member
Can anyone advise me on how i can check to make sure my alternator is charging my battery. My two local garages have been unable to assist as it has a seperate regulator. The battery was only 2 years ol and has losta cell. Any ideas chaps ?
 
I assume you have the 11AC alternator with the 4TR regulator then.

Your best bet is to buy a factory workshop manual as that has all the procedures to test all the component parts and adjust the regulator.
 
If you use a car every day and the alternator matches the car's requirements then a battery should last around 4 years. The 11AC doesn't have a huge amount of go (55A?) and if your car is used only occasionally then 2 years doesn't sound too far out of the norm. The speed of flash of the turn indicators might be a good guide - I'd want to see them pick up speed as the engine speeds up from idle.

Rover went on to fit 17ACR's and later 18ACR's to address the capacity issue, I'd be inclined to junk the current system and go for an 18ACR. If you're commited to keeping it looking original then Holden's (www.holden.co.uk) will sell you a new regulator. Not sure where to go for an alternator though - try your local factor or go direct to Lucas's (www.lsuk.co.uk)?

My cars with a somewhat heavier electrical load than standard run 100A and 120A alternators!

Chris
 
Yes it is the 11AC sorry, I will check the charge rate first. If it's broken is it a straight forward job to upgrade to a 18ACR ?
The car is only used once every couple of weeks, so maybe i am expecting to much out of the battery. Have you seen how much garages are charging for them now ! £70 they wanted, my last one only cost £45, the explanation given was the the price of lead has increased.
If you have any lead at home hang onto it as it my be more valuable than your gold rings in the not to distant future. :D
 
To convert you'll need the alternator, its mounting bracket and the adjuster, and the correct belt. Then if you want the correct multiplug for the alternator you will need that as well, which you can then run the two main wires from it to pick up the main feed from the starter motor. The 4TR control box will need to be disconnected along with the warning light control, and replaced with an ignition controlled feed through the warning light to the small terminal on the alternator.
 
Connected new battery up today and all seems well. Decided to stay with original setup. The amp gauge is a quarter way across in the plus when the choke is on, and is inbetween + and - on tickover when warm.
One thing i did notice is that when the indicators are used the amp meter ticks into the minus and back out again,in timing with the flash. I have never noticed this before,is it normal ?
 
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