Are the standard jacking points an MOT requirement

G

georgecook

Member
As with a number of members I am currently having to replace huge chunks of metal around the sill area, especially at the front and rear jacking points As I am relatively new to welding , repairing all four jacking points back to original spec ( I wish) is doing my head in.
Is it acceptable to remove the standard jacking points, provided the repair maintains its integral strength.?
Would this be OK for the MOT? Bearing in mind that the test station would need to lift the car on a lift for example....
georgecook
 
I don't see any reason why it would be a problem. I've never seen an MOT place using them to lift the car.

But they will caused raised eyebrows if you ever come to sell the car.
 
Hi George.
If you are restoring a car to concourse show standard,then I would rebuild them.
If not and its your weekend classic or daily driver,then I wouldn't bother.
The built in jacking points,in many P6 owners opinions should not be used anyway.
When they were used back in the 60's/70's it put so much stress on the surrounding baseunit metal,as can be seen by mishapen outer sill holes that it often was the cause of underseal and even metal cracking,and allowing the rust worm to get in.
I have had my P6 as my daily driver for 15yrs and a few other P6's as well,and never use their jacking points.
 
I have a 67 2000TC and the jacking points are strong enough to lift the car with no nasty noises or distortion of sills etc.
Operating the standard jack very, very carefully I checked all 4 of them, and they were OK.
So - do I use them when I jack the car up, given that I know they're currently strong enough to do the job?

NOT BLOODY LIKELY - they can sleep comfortably undistorted and the standard jack will never wear out in my ownership :LOL: :?

John
 
Under the front crossmember with a decent trolley jack.
At the rear on the floor area below the rear jacking point where the lower arm bolts to beam/body,and use a 6" square x 1/2" thick bit of wood to spread the load.
In both instances,unless quickly swapping a punctured tyre,use suitably placed axle stands or a spare wheel under the car for safety.
I also jack at the front of the sill/floor area with a block of wood to spread the load.
But in all cases make sure the area is up to it,as ive seen some nasty break through on rusty cars.
 
Agree with the above, but the standard jack is still the only one I carry with me and I'd use it if stuck somewhere with a puncture. But that's the reason I made sure to weld all 4 jacking points to a good standard when doing the sills.
 
Thanks everyone..I will just make sure I carry my trolley jack and plenty of wood, this shouldn't be a problem. Perhaps a couple of cans of that tyre foam as well. What does everyone else do? georgecook
 
No need to carry a heavy trolley jack. A generic compact scissor type works well enough. Depends on how many punctures you plan on having....
 
Hi, I used to carry a Ford Transit scissor jack. Because it's robust, high lift and lighter than
a trolley jack. Being high lift it can be used on suspension pick up points front and rear.

Colin
 
I find a small trolley jack fits neatly between the spare wheel and tool/jack curtain.
But mine is under the false boot floor with other emergency parts.
 
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