Auto gearbox replacement

[Tony58]

Hi All, my borg warner 35 has now been rebuilt, will report on the quality of the job later, firstly I removed it leaving the bellhousing and torque convertor in place, but I think it would be better if I remove these and slide the convertor into the gearbox prior to fitment, do I need to grease the splines and use locktite on the bolts that attach the convertor to the flywheel. Any hints and tips would be appreciated, cost of rebuild £350, so it's a wait and see scenario

 

[harveyp6]

Presumably from what you write you're not replacing the converter, so bear in mind that all the debris that's in the fluid that stays in the converter will go straight round your newly rebuilt box. I would leave the converter in place, visually line up the pump drive tangs, and refit the box to the bellhousing, but that's my choice. Don't put grease anywhere near the box, and personally I don't loctite the converter bolts, but if you do it won't cause any problems unless you have to take them out again.

 

[Tony58]

Thanks harveyp6, the guy who did the box had to buy another box for a spring that he couldn't get and he gave me the torque convertor from that gearbox, I think I will use that one instead of my own, how do you flush it out. He showed me what had gone wrong and what was broken in my box

 

[Tony58]

 

[harveyp6]

the guy who did the box had to buy another box for a spring that he couldn't get

You should have asked, whatever spring it was I'm sure I'd have one and it would have cost less than the price of a box.

and he gave me the torque convertor from that gearbox, I think I will use that one instead of my own, how do you flush it out.

That's risky, you have absolutely no way of knowing the condition of it. It's not possible to drain the converter, so the only thing you can use to flush it out is the correct type of ATF, as whatever you put in there, you can't be sure of getting it all out.

He showed me what had gone wrong and what was broken in my box

Just out of interest, what was the fault and what was broken?

 

[Tony58]

He said and showed me the reverse clutch,which was burnt out there was no material on the bands and the spring was segmented, i seem to recall on a forum rebuild it was a common problem

 

[harveyp6]

Rear clutch failure would mean a loss of TOP as well as REVERSE. I've never seen the rear clutch spring break, only the front one, which as you say, is a common problem. I'd say 75% of the boxes you would dismantle would have a failed front clutch diaphragm spring.

 

[Tony58]

I'm hoping that the rebuild was top notch so I can recommend him to others. Auto boxes seem to have pound notes attached and then double it, I think the price was fair considering the parts required

 

[harveyp6]

I'm hoping that the rebuild was top notch so I can recommend him to others.

Let's hope so.

Auto boxes seem to have pound notes attached and then double it,

That's the same with everything, plenty of chancers out there.

I think the price was fair considering the parts required

If he's replaced all the gaskets and seals, front and rear clutch friction and steel plates, front and rear bands, and the diaphragm spring as a matter of course and any other damaged parts found along the way then I'd be inclined to agree with you, but you have to remember it should have a reconditioned converter to go with it, and they can be expensive.

Having said that if he's prepared to give a years guarantee without it having a recon converter then hopefully you should be OK

 

[Tony58]

Hi All, finally managed to get the torque convertor off. 4 9 16th bolts. Had to lock the engine on the flywheel with my trusty molegrips, slid the TC off and slid it on with a wiggle onto my newly rebuilt gearbox, then the fun began, lifted it onto the square frame attached to my trolley jack and hay ho up it went, half an hour on my back getting the angle and giggling it and on it went. Everything connected easily but the filler tube, what a bastard. I've left it for another day, does anybody know what purpose the fat rubber washers are for on the auto linkage

 

[harveyp6]

does anybody know what purpose the fat rubber washers are for on the auto linkage

They stop dirt getting into the balljoints, and if you're lucky they hold the pin tight enough to be able to refit the pins to the lever using a single spanner.

 

[Tony58]

Thanks Harvey I new you'd know the answer thanks