Ball Joint Separator - Where can I buy a suitable BJ separator

keanej

keanej

New Member
Having just acquired a 1974 3500, i'm finding few minor jobs that need sorting out, next on the list is replacing the gators on the front steering & suspension ball joints which are split/perished although the joints themselves don't seem worn. Does anyone know where I can buy a suitable ball joint separator ?

I have a fork type, which I won't use unless I'm replacing the joint as I believe they ultimately damage the ball and a scissor type which isn't suitable - so I need the real thing.

On searching the web I noticed an old article in the P6 News, Ian Foulds had sourced a tool maker, however he's not at that phone number anymore. Does the club hire out tools ?
 
I split all of the ball joints on the front end of my car using a heavy duty tool of the type that has a fork under the taper hole and a lever pressing down on the top of the thread. (is this a scissor type) It seperated the larger joints on the swivels with out problem or damage to the joints. The boots did get damaged as a result of pushing them out of the way but they were being replaced anyway. I used a pad of aluminuim scrap on top of the thread to avoid distorting it.

I had a lot of bad experiences trying to use a car type seperator on the larger joints that involved firing the seperator round the garage at high speed when it slipped off! The key is that the lever must bear straight down on the thread and if the tool is tool small it sits at an angle and squeezes off when tightened.

The tool was a truck ball joint seperator according to the friend I borrowed it from and if you are interested I can try and get some details from him.

Bennet
 
I had the same job to do when I got my motor lasy year - but fear not - to replace the boots you dont have to remove the ball jionts from the car, all you need to is disconnect them. A largish sicssor type ball joint spliter is fine.

wire brush all the exposed threads before removing the nuts completely. I could not get the split pins out before doing this os I chiseld the ends off and was able to screw the nuts off the ball joint shaft then punch out the reminder of the pin. Turn the nut updise down and screw it back down the ball jiont shaft until its almost flush this helps keep the ball joint spliiter in place. You will probably need a long rachet handle as if like mine the ball joints were very very tight. and be aware of a very loud BANG when the big ones let go!

The spring will stay in place and you can get at all joints failrly easily to replace the boots.
 
All of the previously mentioned methods will work fine on the tie rod ends and ball joints, the "fork" being the least desireable. Since I have had my Rover (s) for many years, since the early 70's, I was able at that time to procure Extractor, part No. 601476 from Rover. It looks like a couple of large diameter bolts welded to a cross piece, and passing through a large, specially machined steel block.(see service manual)
This works with a little more security, but I did find that one can destroy a brand new ball joint with too much hammering !!!
Dick West
 
Ball joints are my least enjoyed job on the P6. A mate of mine made a separator from the picture in the service manual. It looks a bit like a metal U with a dirty great U bolt on it. Works a treat when used in conjunction with heat. The biggest problem is that in Australia ball joints for Rovers are like hen's teeth, and they can be very expensive to replace. My custon tool has cut down on the number of joints that I manage to destroy but they do still go BANG at inopportune times.
Cheers
Guy. :)
 
Problem I've still got is trying to find a scissor separator big enough, the one I have has jaws that open a max of 45mm, all the new one that are available to buy open only 38mm. It needs to open 50 - 55 mm for the top ball joint.

Anyone know of any second hand tool dealers that may have some old stock.
 
try going to a motor factors they appear as "trade outlets" but will probably help! a sale is a sale names such as part co, brown brothers, dingbro, Fasco (engineer supplies) there must be one of these local and they should be able to help. I think the one I have is a sikes pickivant model, bought out of Macess, a trade only cash and carry for the Motor trade ( dont ask)..
 
The one I used was a sykes pykavant and my mate tells me that he bought it from a tool van that touts around the local garages.
 
sounds like same thing but think your spelling is correct!

if you have pelnty of money you could always wave down a "snap on" tool van - you cant buy better quality tools - they will stand daily use in hands of a pro, last for years and have a proper lifetime warranty -- but this is also reflected in price! :(
 
hi everyone, i'm curently restoring a 3500 p6 and have completed the front suspension replacing the upper and lower ball joints on the swivel pillars which i took to a garage to have done as you need a special puller for the lowers but to seperate all the steering joints and the swivel pillars from the rest of the suspension i just took the nuts off levered them appart with a bar and while holding on the pressure hit the side of the suspension where the tapered part of the joint goes through and the popped apart no problem. so the question is,after reading this thread, is am i a fool or a lucky fool.

paul.
 
no fool! its almost a correct method to remove anyball joint - if you cant get a puller to fit and you can swing a hammer - you should have a heavy hammer held behind the joint as you whack it with a lighter one from the other side - I'm sure your leavering would be ok if it were light- ie not likely to bend anything...

guess this should stir things up abit ;)
 
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