Bonnet rethink

[Objective]

We've found the source of an annoying rattle is the (now perished) bonnet prop at the attached end where the original fitting has simply perished.
What I've found in previous posts show a variety of fittings, none match what is left of ours, so I suspect previous mods have occurred. The original rubber doesn't look like it will fit the hinge-end of the prop, where it is bent 90֯
Anyroad, the prop bar itself seems to have a very small purchase, maybe only 22mm of bent end with split pin 1.5mm holes at 4mm and 8 mm centres drilled through the rod.
The pop rivetted bonnet fitting offers just an oversize hole approx 20mm diameter.
The rattling seems to be a good opportunity to fit a permanent fix, and perhaps use an alternative flexible fitting. Has anyone found an alternative?
Also, we were thinking of fitting a pair of these Aerocatch fixings (Home - AeroCatch) for safety. Has anyone any experience with these, especially on an old car like our 1970 P6 2000TC.
Any experience or opinions would be much appreciated.
P

 

[Demetris]

I am also concerned on the flimsy looking bonnet lock on the P6 Rovers. It is exactly the same item as used in Minis, even my 1100 has a significantly larger locking pin and lock. Now if you compare the size and weight of a Mini bonnet with a P6 item, it all seems ridiculous. Even at moderate motorway speeds the bonnet shakes and tries to lift itself.
If you are determined, the most neat solution would be to fit two locking pins, left and right, as many moderns do, and leave the safety catch in the middle. I imagine that 3 rivnuts per side would be enough to hold the pin base to the aluminium bonnet underframe, while the modification to the landing panel to accept the locks should not be difficult as it is made from good old mild steel. Then you only need to extend the cable so that both locks release simultaneously.
Anything else aftermarket while OK on a rally car, would look out of place in a standard looking Rover.

 

[Vern Klukas]

Over the years I’ve only seen two cases of the bonnet blowing open on a P6. Both cases it was on the safety hook, not properly closed. In one case the nose of the car had been damaged and straightened out and the safety hook barely hooked. The other one was a mystery.

I’ve driven many different P6 at high speeds, and rough roads, and never had one come up. Even when on the safety hook. So personally, I wouldn’t spoil a perfectly good hood with anything that needs a hole drilled. Demetris’s idea of hidden latches sounds much better. Still, I think it’s overkill.

One thing that is very important is the two front steady rubbers are in good condition, and firmly contact the bonnet when latched. The front should have no vertical shake to it

Yours
Vern

 

[Demetris]

Vern, indeed, the standard latch seems to be just adequate, but, you can't have the bonnet really tight between the 2 steadies and the latch, because it's made from alluminium, and after a point you 're just bending your bonnet into a smilling face. So even when everything is as it should, the bonnet will keep wobbling at higher speeds and/or head or cross winds, and in my books, a nicely engineered car like the P6, should not have a wobbling bonnet.

 

[Objective]

Ah yes, I'm faced with a front end that has had work done - nicely, but still not quite straight on the front central area, plus bonnet steadies that have been replaced with non-standard items and rubbers that are currently like fruit pastels - the black ones retaining that sugar coated look. Wins supplied replacements which don't fit, revealing the non-standard steady pegs.
I've renovated the latch and safety latch, but with the rattling stay and other sounds while running that may be bonnet related (a rumble on trailing throttle LH bends), I'd prefer piece of mind.
The what is left of the original sound deadening did nothing to solve rattle or rumble, but we'll replace with a new lining when I work out what can be used these days. Any ideas gratefully received.