Brake lights

FrazzleTC

Active Member
This is maybe a silly question, but my brake lights don't illuminate until the brake pedal reaches the bottom of its travel, I think this could be due to the switch, I've sprayed some GT85 at it today, but to no avail so far. Does it sound like the switch?
ps. the car has a high level brake light fitted if that makes any difference.
Thanks in advance.
 
Do your brakes operate before your pedal reaches the floor ? If so , and you've got the normal hydraulic type switch , it must be the switch

However your brake pedal shouldn't reach the end of it's travel .If it does you've got air in the system caused by a leak somewhere .Hopefully not the rear calipers
 
The brakes operate fine, but the lights don't come on until I have the brakes on as hard as I can press the pedal which isn't very handy.
 
It's definitely the switch. You need a new one as these are not repairable. You will find it bolted on a junction under the servo.
You have to remove the battery to reach it. Difficult, but not impossible.
 
And I'm afraid that implies a ful brake bleed after!

Another way of doing it is to substitute the hydraulic switch by fitting a spring operated switch to the brake pedal. A bit of rewiring, obviously, but the prospect of future reliability, and I dare say you've had enough of messing around with the mechanics for a bit!

There are some here (but lots of others elsewhere too!): http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprod...tches&agCode=0535&agName=Brake+Light+Switches

Chris
 
Thanks for your help everyone, I shall look into an electric switch I think, and I'll let you know how I get on.
 
There is a bad batch of Lucas pressure switches out there which do not last long, and give the symptom which you describe, of the brake lights coming on only when there is lots of pressure in the system.

Go with a Beck Arnley switch. They seem to work okay. Beck Arnley part number 201-0130. Here is a list of other makes which use the same switch.

AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE (1962 - 1966)
AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE MK IV 1966
AUSTIN MINI (1960 - 1964)
FORD ANGLIA (1963 - 1967)
FORD ANGLIA SUPER 1964
HILLMAN HUSKY 1960
HILLMAN HUSKY SERIES II (1961 - 1963)
HILLMAN HUSKY SERIES III (1964 - 1966)
HILLMAN MINX SERIES IIIA 1960
HILLMAN MINX SERIES IIIB 1961
HILLMAN MINX SERIES IIIC (1962 - 1963)
HILLMAN MINX SERIES V 1964
HILLMAN SUPER MINX 1962
HILLMAN SUPER MINX MK I 1963
HILLMAN SUPER MINX MK II (1963 - 1965)
HILLMAN SUPER MINX MK III 1966
JAGUAR MARK X (1963 - 1966)
JAGUAR XKE (1963 - 1971)
LAND ROVER LAND ROVER (1962 - 1969)
MG 1100 (1963 - 1967)
MG MGB (1963 - 1967)
MG MGB GT (1963 - 1967)
MG MIDGET (1962 - 1966)
ROVER 2000 (1964 - 1971)
ROVER 2000 TC (1966 - 1971)
SUNBEAM ALPINE III 1963
SUNBEAM ALPINE IV 1964
SUNBEAM ALPINE IV GT 1964
SUNBEAM ALPINE LE MANS 1963
SUNBEAM ALPINE V (1965 - 1967)
SUNBEAM ARROW (1968 - 1969)
SUNBEAM RAPIER III (1960 - 1961)
SUNBEAM RAPIER IIIA (1962 - 1963)
SUNBEAM RAPIER IV 1964
SUNBEAM RAPIER V (1965 - 1967)
SUNBEAM TIGER (1964 - 1967)
TRIUMPH GT6 (1967 - 1970)
TRIUMPH HERALD (1960 - 1962)
TRIUMPH SPITFIRE (1963 - 1967)
TRIUMPH TR2 (1954 - 1955)
TRIUMPH TR250 1968
TRIUMPH TR3 (1956 - 1957)
TRIUMPH TR3A (1958 - 1961)
TRIUMPH TR3B 1962
TRIUMPH TR4 (1962 - 1964)
TRIUMPH TR4A (1965 - 1967)
TRIUMPH TR6 (1969 - 1970)
VOLVO 122 S (1962 - 1968)
VOLVO 544 (1959 - 1961)

Rock auto has these switches.

They look like this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488492

James.
 
Carry a spare switch in the boot of your car as well. I have worked out over the years that only parts of the car fail for which you are not carrying, or do not have a spare readily available.

James.
 
chrisyork said:
And I'm afraid that implies a full brake bleed after!

I don't think that's the case at all as if you're quick, escaping fluid will prevent the ingress of air.
I've swapped our 2200's switch in the past. Did it in the street, a very rapid change & a small top-up of fluid was all that was required. Just have the new switch in the hand that's not unscrewing the old switch, ready to go in. New one in your right hand if you're right-handed or vice-versa as it's obviously easier to get the thread started with your natural hand & the old switch will just fall out on it's own as you unscrew it with your un-natural one.
No ambidextrous jokes please!
 
What he said. Ive swapped brake light switches ain the car park at college, work and at home in the way TRM describes - fast! Never had to bleed after, its a quick and easy fix.
 
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