Brake refurb

arthuy

arthuy

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Just wanted to get some views on the old brake refurb topic.

I have usually got a rebuild kit and done them myself no probs.

I was told about past parts and thought they sounded the buisness, stainless pistons and sleeves, they could last forever ish.

I spoke to them and they don't use stainless on the front calipers instead they get some kind of teflon coated parts. I thought I would give JRW a call to see what he can do. his response

"No we moved away from S/S pistons years ago after experiencing problems with them, so stick to the original chrome and ground or nitrided which is common today. They are not sleeved as they don't need to be-its extremely rare to have corrosion in the bore--just the pistons go rusty."

I thought that stainless steel was the way to go, has anyone had there calipers professionally overhauled? I am interested to know of others experiences.

Cheers
Colin
 
This is one where I'd appreciate advice as well! I'd always thought the stainless sleeve and piston route sounded the most promising, but Colin's mention of teflon set me thinking.

From hard listening there doesn't seem to be much of a problem with the fronts - solution really down to taste and fashion. The same hard listening seems to suggest there isn't a workable solution for the backs - they are just a rubbish design. You can vary the period until they next leak but it's going to be sooner rather than later.

Hence my enthuisiasm for the previously mentioned Sierra Cosworth rear conversion.

Who out there has tried more than the one repair technique?

Chris
 
I have had stainless steel pistons on my front calipers for 30,000 miles. I have had no rusting issues. When I first used bright or satin chrome pistons, they eventually became pitted and rusty. Pushing them back to install new pads meant that the rust pits would now score the rubber seals as the piston worked and then stayed further out as the pads wore again.

I would have thought that rust pitted pistons reduced the life expectancy of your brake seal kits.

Now, from a sales and marketing standpoint, wouldn't you want all that to happen? You would sell more pistons and more caliper kits over time.

A machinist friend over her made them up for us. He's not well at the moment so that production stopped.

It seems like a good project for a backyard machinist wanting to augment a pension.

Eric
 
Bit of a sideways view, but wouldn't silicone brake fluid help here, normal fluid soaks up water and helps to promote rust, whereas the silicone stuff doesn't, although I am aware that you don't get the same "feel" with silicone fluid, and you need to do a complete overhaul to get rid of all traces of normal fluid first.
 
Must say I am very pro braking and tend to shy away from anything with even a hint of a performance downside!

Chris
 
I've just bought a set of pistons and rebuild kits from Past Parts. When I was at their shop the other day, the chap there also confirmed to me they don't sell stainless steel pistons for these models.

They tend to "supply and fit stainless steel pistons and liners to older cars", and these are made to order.

Anyway the pistons I bought looked like they are treated with a dull teflon looking coating. The coating certainly looks more substantial than the chrome finish.

My car is 35 years old and assuming the last pistons were on the car for this period then the new ones should probably see me out.

Mike
 
If the dust seals are OK the exposed section of the piston shouldn't corrode. In fact it shouldn't be exposed !
A bit of the red rubber grease on assembly should help protect the plating. Also don't wear the pads down too far so the piston doesn't extend too far out
 
well my master cylinder gave up this week still had a good pedal but fluid running of brake pedal removed master and stripped hoping to get away with just aseal kit but no luck and i change my brake fluid every september
the web master is right about dot 5 fluid does give longer pedal travel but is not harmful to paintwork like other fluids and recomended to empty system of old fluid thats only practical if your doing a full rebuild and thats expensive on a p6 as we all know
ps
allways check dates on new bottles of b fluid in the shops coz they do have a shelf life
 
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