Camshaft and Lifters

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
When the original 3.5 litre V8 was removed from my P6B last year having covered 203,000 miles to make way the 4.6, it gave me the opportunity to dismantle the engine and take a good look around.

My Dad purchased the Rover in 1978, with just over 20,000 miles on the clock. Dad was always particular about changing the oil and filter every 2000 to 2500 miles, and when the Rover became my responsibility in 1985, I continued with that procedure for the next 22 years. Oil was originally Castrol GTX, then GTX2, and then Pennzoil GT Performance for a good 19 years. All were 20W-50 oils.

With the engine somewhat down on power compared to how it once was, I felt that the camshaft and lifters may have been one of many contributing factors. When lifters have been used in an engine for while it is not always possible to lift them out of the lifter gallery, rather the camshaft must be removed first and the lifters pushed through allowing them to fall into the sump (if it happens still to be on) for collection.

When new, the camshaft fitted to the P6B engines had a lift of 0.39". All the lobes bar two had been reduced in lift by approx 10%. Two lobes had been worn down by a massive 30% :shock: Effectively the engine was running on only 6 cylinders. As a note, a Rover camshaft that exhibits more than a 1% reduction in lift is considered worn and due for replacement. Even with this amount of wear, the engine was still smooth, with a lovely idle, but then of course wear takes place gradually, so you don't really notice the change. Compared to the new 4.6, my old 3.5 was very "tappy", with an idle not nearly as stable or as smooth as the new big engine.

The camshaft bearings were also very heavily worn. When new, these bearings are steel backed babbit lined, and they will wear first on the underside where the loading is greatest. The majority of the camshaft bearings showed considerable wear, with no lining left, the camshaft was spinning directly on the steel backing. :shock:

Rover stated in the P6B workshop manuals that these bearings are non serviceable, but they can be removed and new ones fitted, but it is a engine workshop job with specialist tools required, and of course the engine must be stripped and the block delivered bare, along with the camshaft to ensure smooth running.

I have attached some photos which illustrate some lifters and the camshaft. The concavity in one lifter is considerable, and when examined closely cracking of the base was evident. The camshaft wear is also very clear, with noticable erosion of the lobes.

Ron.


F1000007.jpg


F1000009.jpg
 
Thanks Ron, I was worried enough when I found some slop in my timing chain and saw your photos of camshaft sprocket wear to want me to replace with a steel set (underway), now I'm positively scared of looking too closely at camshaft for above signs of wear!! Might have to obtain and recon a 4.6 engine as another hobby in addition to my P6B!! or maybe I can fit a gas turbine (less moving parts to wear, eh what?) in there!!!

Regards,
 
What you doing with your old block? A table perhaps. :) For an engine with 200k miles and 30+ years on it, it's done very well!
 
G'day Scott,

I am pleased that you found this post interesting. Gives plenty of food for thought :?

How many miles has your Rover covered, if you don't mind me asking?

Ron.
 
Hello Richard,

Regular oil and filter changes with a 20W-50 or 60 oil I feel are very important in keeping the Rover V8 happy. When the engine was stripped down, the discolouration inside was tan to dark brown. No black at all, and not the slightest evidence of any black sludge. The lifter gallery was clean with no build up at all. The block did however exhibit main bearing cap to register fretting. :shock:

A fellow 1974 P6B owner that I know has always adopted a different outlook on servicing, as he would always run the oil for a good 6000 miles between changes. In some instances it may be some years between oil changes. The engine has next to no oil pressure, and looking inside the oil filler cap, everything is shiny and jet black. Not a pretty picture.

Ron.
 
18031 kms is showing on the five digit odometer, so obviously its gone around at least once looking at the timing chain I've just removed (which still has all teeth intact on the camshaft sprocket) I am going to say its more then likely just once, (as I did'nt ask the previous owner, but might try and contact him). There is a thin layer of sludge inside the sump to be expected as the drain plug boss sits inside the sump quite a bit so you don't get a total draining of old oil which I might look at having the boss on the outside of the sump? (any thoughts?). Removed the p/s pump and it's (over engineered?) mounting bracket, surely there must be a way of modifying this to make a belt change easier! (I'm giving this a good dose of thinking about) I did'nt know there was a rope seal at the front of the crank, another modifying (machining?) job coming up? Is this what we do? I can easily get this done at work and fit the softer viton oil seal. Sorry that I'm digressing away from "Camshaft and Lifters" just wanted to get the above off my chest while corresponding with you, that oil supply hose to the p/s pump also needs rerouting (shortening to boot) but I've mentioned this in the respective topic heading. (sorry, going off in a tangent again) Thanks Ron, at least I've answed your initial question.

Regards,
 
Hello Scott,

From the description of the condition of the your nylon tooth timing wheel, once around the clock would seem the most likely.

I don't see a problem with relocating the sump plug boss to the outside. If you don't travel on rough dirt roads, I cannot see a situation where it might be knocked off.

The advantage of having a lengthy low pressure power steering hose linking the reservoir to the pump is that it adds to the system capacity. In addition routing the hose in front of the radiator at the bottom of the valance offers the advantage of a cool stream of air to help in reducing the system operating temperature.

The rope seal in the timing cover can be replaced, but I understand that there may be modifications involved before a vitron oil seal can be fitted. :? They do seal surprisingly well, plus the crankshaft is fitted with an oil thrower which was not included in later engines where the vitron oil seal was a standard fitment.

Ron.
 
This is an interesting post especially since i have just rebuilt the top end of my neglected V8 in my p5b.

I was pretty shocked how bad the camshaft can be and the engine still ran well although starting was a bit difficult at times. When I took out the old Cam everything because clear. The lobe for number 8 cylinder was down to 32mm and more round than anything. The new cam is 36mm though that is a slight upgrade.

I replaced the rope seal with a seal from Rover classics. it was a sqoosh to fit, just prise off the old retainer for the rope seal and just run round the area with a file to clean it up.

Colin


This page shows the seal as item 263.http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/partslist/result.php?category=6

Before
575327260349b57a5302adc5b5b73425fa423b6abd25acbc5c93c0cbca996d4e4cb6c95e.jpg


With retainer removed
7467005727227e530efc1a9ab3d501a5e0029fff8dc44c269d44e91bef497aa7d964cee3.jpg


Fitted
89026715aed11ac79c49c186b764f0acc72ba33a39c16aefa61de3014d6aa294b9621d04.jpg


This is the old and new camshafts
437444341096c1f46f63be80de12cf39464f1ced03db67da568b566716aa8b7a303e1175.jpg


More v8 engine photos on my album http://photos.orange.co.uk/album/4438985
 
Hello Colin,

Yes it can be quite revealing looking at a Rover camshaft and lifters after they have had a bit of use. :shock:

It would seem by all accounts that most OEM Rover camshafts will be in need of replacement after as little as 70,000 miles. Of course, this is a minimum, and most will see far more use before being removed.

A point of interest is with the lifters, ( or tappets). For the entire production run of the Rover V8, these were sourced from the Diesel Equipment Co, Grand Rapids U.S.A.

Thanks for the link to your Rover photos. So far I have had a lot of trouble with pages just not opening, but I shall persist!

Ron.
 
My old V8 was down a little on power so I decided to check the camshaft for wear.

I didn't have a lot of time to allow the car to be off the road, so just to check it, I removed the rocker covers and just started the car and let it tickover. Watch out for oil running down onto the manifolds!

You can just look at the distance the rockers move and easily see if they are opening properly. I had two lobes almost non existant and could see that the valves were only just moving.

This is a good way just to check the cam wear without the need for delving too deeply into the inards of your engine.
 
thats what its all about arthuy, improving on the original where we can, I'm on the same track as you, I've just knocked out my steel rope seal retainer and now need to obtain a seal (there is a seal and brg place near me) hopefully the size is available in the softer viton material which does not go as hard over time as the neoprene seals do. although not having measured accurately yet it looks to be 2.5/8" OD X 1.15/16" ID, its just a pity it can't be fitted from the outside to make it easier next time, but the next time would be a long way off anyway. I was thinking about machining the front off and fitting a retaining plate on the inside for it to butt up to (if you know what I mean, similar to modern way) I don't know if yours was bad but the gasket face on this cover leaves a lot to be desired, its not exactly a machined surface so I was contemplating giving that a little tickle as well maybe taking minimum of 010" off to clean it up a bit but I need to make sure its not going to affect anything such as drive gear distance for dissy etc, not that 10 thou should make a difference (but you never know) thanks for the photos its a good idea for sharing mods this way. I actually drilled the three little peened dimples a little to make it easier to tap out the steel retainer with no damage to it at all.

Regards
 
Thats what being in the club is all about sharing information.

I will include an article in the next edition of P6 news. The seal was a real sqoosh but you need to remove all traces of the peened dimples. When I fitted the seal a little bit I missed caught the rubber :oops: I used a light smear of the hermite red to secure the seal in the seat.

I am not sure how much buying the seal from Rover classics is compare to the local sourcing but as it is the correct item it would be worth it.

Colin
 
G'day Colin,

You don't happen to know what the OD of the Rover Classics seal was perchance?, I've roughly measured the rope retainer OD I knocked out and came up with approx 2.647" (approx 2.21/32"), I had intended to fit the later timing cover which I got off my '76 doner car (so I bought the standard oil seal for it) but it had some bad scoring in the oil pump surfaces so I'm now back to my older cover and will either modify to suit the oil seal I bought (1.937"ID X 2.500"OD X 0.375") or chase up one same as what Rover Classics supplied to you if you can oblige with a outside dimension. Thanks in advance,

Regards,
 
I am not sure of the sizes as it is all fitted.

If you prise off the rope seal retainer it is the same.

You could drop Ian at rover classics an email as I am sure he would be able to give the dimensions for you.

Colin
 
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