Carburettor shananigans...

rockdemon

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
Hi,

I finally tackled one of the carbs this weekend. I took some piccies on the way - when i do the other carb i'll try and make a how to page as it was easier than i thought! (In fact it was fine till the end of the test drive when the accelerator linkage snapped! :roll: )

It just needs the correct new needle now!

Enjoy...(If that's the right word :))

Rich.

21032010229.jpg


21032010230.jpg


21032010231.jpg


21032010232.jpg


21032010233.jpg


21032010234.jpg


21032010235.jpg


21032010236.jpg


21032010237.jpg


21032010238.jpg


21032010239.jpg


21032010240.jpg


21032010241.jpg
 
The inside of the dashpot shows evidence of gunge build up. Clean this away carefully, perhaps with a cleaner such as Duraglit (for silver etc), and also do the equivalent surface on the piston. When you get to the second carb, have this dashpot and piston off again. Having removed the damper and spring from both check that the fall time of the poistons is identical in both. If not you can try swopping the pistons between dashpost. If the fall times are differnet then the response of the carbs to manifold vacuum will be different, so you'll be able to set mixture at idle but it will get progressively further apart as you load the engine.

On your other post you mentioned that you broke the likage on your test run. I'm not clear what broke. Was it the nylon bobbin between the bulkhead and the carbs proper? If so you can get a new one from Ian at Rover-Classics. While you're at it get a new rubber bearing that goes into the bracket on the bulkhead. These two are critical in allowing you to acheive full throttle at the carbs... When you get to set the carbs up, the first action is to ensure you get full throttle at both carbs at the same time, and then that both carbs crack at the same time. You might need to compromise the settings slightly to get close to both.

Looks good so far!

Chris
 
Hi,

thanks for the feedback - much appreciated. I managed to get most of that gunk out with the carb cleaner ( that's a before shot :eek:)).

I dont think the carbs are as bad as i thought to be honest, as i think most of the gunge in them is down to the oil pouring through the air intake (which will be worse on the other carb as that's the one that looked most gunked up!) Thanks for the tips about the piston return rate - i'd seen that mentioned elsewhere but your explanation means that it actually makes sense to me now :eek:)

On the snapped linkage thing, yes your'e right on the culprit - the little plastic bush that connects the two halves of the rod between the bulkhead and the carbs together. Unfortunately Ian at Rover classics doesnt have any. I've emailed Wins and am just trawling ebay, but otherwise i'm going to be looking for a second hand one - cant use the car without it!

The other thing i did was to correct the timing to stop the slight pinking before doing the carb. it became apparent that it was possibly timed to stop the noise from the engine sounding so bad. Now the timing is right it sounds more like a sticking valve than just a cam lifter. Need to take the rocker cover off and check that again i guess. I'm picking up a 2nd hand engine off Chris W on saturday so I'll get them swapped and have this one apart for spares or reinserting after changing parts etc. to get it running to spec.

If anybody has any bright ideas on the plastic bush i'd be grateful!

Thanks,

Rich.
 
In fact Wins have just emailed to say they have a throttle bush so that's sorted :eek:)

*phew*

Rich.
 
Thanks for those pictures Rockdemon... I've got to tackle my carb's at some juncture and this, I'm sure, will help out! I do have a quick question though... On the picture below...

21032010229.jpg


...you can see a raised portion by the upright bit of the right (as we're looking at it) carburettor. Is this a marking to denote the position the carburettor should be...? It's just that I have purchased some second-hand carb's that are still attatched to the manifold but they have those raised portions in a different position...! Does this matter or is it just a strengthening 'lug' for the top portion of the carb body...?! This may sound like a daft question to some (or most of you probably!) but I am a technical dunce and have to ask daft questions every now and then...!!! If anybody has the answer that would be tremendous...
 
If you're referring to what looks like a support buttress to the top of the dashpot, it's an airway, and as for it's position, I think you'll find that the screws holding the dashpot to the carb body are offset, so they will only fit on one way.
 
harveyp6 said:
If you're referring to what looks like a support buttress to the top of the dashpot, it's an airway, and as for it's position, I think you'll find that the screws holding the dashpot to the carb body are offset, so they will only fit on one way.
Click to expand...
Well that clears that up, thanks a million sir...! Does their position differ from carb to carb...?! I'll try and take a snap of the carb's I've purchased to show the comparison...
 
rockdemon wrote,...
If anybody has any bright ideas on the plastic bush i'd be grateful!
Click to expand...

Hello Rich,

In the late 1970s, my father made a replacement coupling out of brass for a friend's P6. It looked identical, except that it was hand made from brass,..and now almost 40 years later that brass coupling is still working away it that P6. Unfortunately time was not on his side so he didn't have an opportunity to make another. I have however seen another Rover with a brass coupling just in recent years, so another gent too has made one.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron, That's interesting - I've got a 2nd hand plastic one coming for now, but i have a friend who works in an engineering factory so for a beer i might be able to get something fashioned!

Hi Grifterkid, I'm glad you found these interesting - now i've done the first one I'll be more methodical doing the second one, so i should be able to take better photos although thats going to be a few weeks away. What i would say is that the kit came with decent instructions and as long as you follow them and take some photos of the linkage it's fairly straightforward. THe hardest bit is removing the old gaskets. And you'll need about 4 cans of carb cleaner too - quite expensive but it does bring most of the gunk of easily.

Rich.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top