Creaking Suspension

Both Ron's and Simon's methods work with brand new equipment and with precise use. However... The experience in the garage trade is that it only takes the slightest damage to the end cap or the threads with Ron's method, or the slightest inattention to getting the clamps exactly opposite each other with Simon's and sooner rather than later there is going to be some very high velocity metal in the workshop.

Don't take any chances at all with springs!

The big advantage with "my" meethod (it's not mine - I learnt it from a very sage and experienced RAF trained technician/master) is that you can gradually release the spring to free length and you never have to be near the front of the car whilst its under compression.

Chris
 
That's great advice from you all. I have found a supplier for some parts and will be getting them tomorrow if there is time. I'll keep you informed as to how I get on. :D
 
I've used Chris Yorks method to replace the bushes on the bulkhead mounts, and I did it with no engine or transmission in.
I used a trolley jack under the top ball joint, (front pillar removed.)

I consider myself competent to do this, and would recommend it to anyone, WITH the weight of the engine and trans. in.


Jim.
 
Brian-Northampton said:
It's often more of a knock than a creak, but check the bolts securing the Steering Idler - they're known to come loose once in a while
Click to expand...

Absolutely. It sounded like a creak at times and a knock at others. The recent rebuild of my idler cured all the noise. Not that I had much time to enjoy the silent suspension because the gearbox crapped itself almost immediately afterwards.
 
I now have the suspension taken off the car but am still having some problems. I think these problems are mostly down to corrosion. I cannot remove the old rubber cover ball end for the top link from the top link assembely. It appears to be one solid peice of metal, however my workshop manual shows this is not the case. I have tried lots of wd40 and have been whacking at it with a mallet and it refuses to budge. I am also having a similar problem with removing the inner bush for the top link mounting bracket and the top ball joint. The top ball joint looks to be in terrible condition. It needs to come off the top link and be replaced, however I tried pushing it out with my screw press tool thing (not sure what that is called :oops: ) but it proved to be so stubborn that it bent the threaded spindle of the tool :shock: . Any ideas?
 
DayleW said:
I got them off eventually. The trick was to keep hitting it very hard!
Click to expand...

A tip for next time, get a bigger hammer...... :LOL:

Or preferably in the case of the top ball joint taper, split it while it's all still attached to the car.
 
My internet research suggests that silicone based grease is the correct type for rubber bushes. Can anyone confirm this?
 
And I found another post that says that you dont need to grease rubber bushes although silicone grease wont hurt them. It's all so confusing :? .
 
Bushes aremn't meant to turn in their housings. So anything you apply should be viewed solely as a preservative. Getting them to go in in the first place may be better achieved with good old Fairy Liquid - other products are avilable.

Chris
 
Hi Dayle,

Best not to put any grease of any type on them. The inner bush needs to be pressed onto the top link and then the bracket pressed over the bush. Be sure that the face of the anti rollbar attachment point is at 90 degrees to the top link mounting bracket. If this doesn't happen the front ride height will be incorrect, either too low or noticably high, and the bush will suffer premature failure.

Ron.
 
Thank you. I'll be putting it all back together tomorrow after the paint drys. Hopefully it'll go back in easier than it came out...
 
When I took the coil spring off the car there was a rubber ring at each end and the rubber had steel shims sandwiching it (shim-rubber-shim-spring-shim-rubber-shim). The diagram however appears to show the two shims together (rubber-shim-shim-spring-shim-shim-rubber). It wouldn't be the first time I have discovered something has been put together in the wrong order. Which is correct? Also the shims appear to be different thicknesses...
 
I would take it to be the latter, as shown in the parts book. The factory used the shims to keep the car sitting within the specified right height boundaries.

Were the number of shims per spring identical?

Ron.
 
I've only taken the one side off so I couldn't say. I have put it back together as shown in the manual. It's been a hell of a job trying to get it all back together. Just about there now though. I'll remove the spring compressors tomorrow and then shock back on and then put the wing back :).
 
Job Done! Thanks for the help eveyone. I'll give it a few days to let everything settle and then recheck everything has stayed tight. I may get the alignment checked as well.
 
BMW prescribe a specific solvent for press-fitting control arm (wishbone) bushes on eg. the E36 3-series. Instructions indicated that it would help create a bond upon drying (within two hours). What do people think?
 
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