de-dion boot disaster!

S

scauto

New Member
ok so the cars up in the air waiting a rebuilt caliper, due tomorrow. So I think ok I'll get out the angle grinder with the twisted knot sprial wire brush and remove all the crud I can reach and repaint everything.

buzz ping aw naw! the wire brush bounced and ripped the gaiter :(

So rather than get a new gaiter, and remove half the rear of the car to fit it does anyone know of any other reliable fixes, such as split CV boots ( used on those new fangled cars that drive the front wheels) Surely there is something avaialbe even for a commercal vehicle that would fit????
 
All I can offer is sympathy aswell. I mangled my wiring loom with the same type of twisted knot wire brush.

That really is a pain in the backside to sort out but to look on the bright side at least you can do a proper paint job now and maybe even replace some bushes.
 
I have a new gaiter on the way, but I might try some RTV sealant ( industrial grade) first, mind you I really did mess up the boot!

If I have time I might pop into once of the local commercal motor factors to see if they have anything to save all the strip down...

On a note about twisted knot wire brushes - wear a full face mask - I always do, even before a mate, years ago was using same on something in a vice, it bounced up and took a chunk from his nose.... he did have goggles on but they dont offer enough protection!

Derek :D
 
It occured to me that it might be possible to remove the de-dion tube but leave both elbows attatched to the car. I only re-assembled the suspension a few months ago so I've got a pretty clear re-collection of it

If you were to unbolt both ends I feel pretty sure that it could be manouvered out from under the car without undoing anything else. The only sod will be undoing all the 7/16 bolts that hold the elbows.

Bennet
 
Just to add my own bit on the De dion elbow.

It is very possible to remove the elbow from the tube in situ by un bolting the elbow at the bushes then the tube leaving the passenger side untouched then slip on a new gaiter.

However the I put off replacing my own until the de dion elbow broke. When it came to stripping it down I was glad I had removed it from the car because I ended up chiseling a few bolts off and wouldn't have enjoyed it so much on my back.

My advice is unbolt the half shafts at the brake discs the un bolt the top links and then swing the tube down then unbolt the elbows from the trailing arms. unbolt the tube from the elbows, de-rust then paint or as I did get them Galvanised. See my pictures in previous thread.

You have got the prefect excuse, even if you think the tube is in good order do it the worst that will happen is that you know it is in goo shape.

Colin
 
well that was not so bad, getting the tube off, no rusty nuts, only took 1/2 hour.. 'course that was too easy, yep rust has weakend the inside of one elbow at the mounting flange and the metal has ripped
, probably due to twisting when it rotated of car.. it probably could be welded but I have just ordered a set of decent replacments - too many pot holes in the road to take chances..
any bets on what will fall off next?? (bearing in mind the car was almost mot'd in July - leaky rear caliper was only fail!)

its all good fun :D

Thanks for all your suggestions
 
HOW MUCH! wow!

actually got boot from Ray Weekly, along with some other bits, and due to delays etc on thier part the boot came Free !

if only I got get the suspension all back together - it seems too wide after fitting new bushes ( cant bolt one hub back in place) - much grunting and groaning yesterdau afternoon! - - thinks will have to strap lower links together to stop de dion moving out and try again arrghh nearly there, then just the exhuast to fix, a new gearbox sump gasket and can take it back to MOT ( only failed on rear caliper.... :D
 
Did you unbolt the hub from the elbow or did you unbolt the half shaft from the brake disc/dif to remove the dedion tube?

If you unbolted the hub then try bolting it back to the elbow, fit to the trailing arms the swing the assembly up and connect the top links. this would leave you with the half shafts to reconnect with four bolts.

I did mine this way and found no problems, I did have a bit of fun trying to line up the bolt holes in the elbows with the bushes.
 
When I have to relax the DeDion tube (remove half-shafts)(change DeDion boot), I use a "Spanish Windlass" to pull the elbows together. I wrap a thin rope around one elbow, pass it across to the other elbow, and tie the 2 ends of rope together. You should have 2 lines passing by the DeDion tube. I use a short peice of wooden broomstick or a metal bar to insert between the 2 lines of rope. I wind the bar and the rope in one direction until the DeDion tube is compressed. The wooden (safer) or metal bar can be anchored against the DeDion tube to stop it rotatiing until you are ready.

Oh, a temporary DeDion boot? Had you thought about a motorcycle inner rube cut lengthwise with the open end upwards. Apply another piece of the same inner tube downwards. Tie or silicone glue the bits together.

The joys of P6 ownership many years on :-(

Eric
 
thanks its all back together now.
Actually did not have any assembly problems at all once I realised i'd made a stupid error reassembling both hub's when fitting new bearing's ( usually I'd only do one at a time to avoid this, but as it loked like I was going to have to take the drive flange to engineering firm to get inner bearing removed I'd stripped both)

believe it or not I'd rebuilt the hubs with both flanges towards the wheel stud end - duh! I knew something was up as soon as I tried to fit a wheel ..... anyway with that sorted and a big luggage type strap round the bottom links to pull them together it was all too easy.... just need a rear nut and bolt for a top link as had to chisel nut off...
then its on to the front end to fit a bit exhaust and an engine mount....

BTW - some Motor factors do stock large split gaiters for temporary repairs....

;)
 
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