difficulty changing down to 2nd

Hi Brian

That sounds like a top idea. I'll get myself a hose 'Y' adaptor tomorrow and have a go.

cheers

Dave
 
Gents

After a few weeks of messing around with gearsticks and sleeves and springs etc and still having selection difficulties, including at one stage having the end of the gearstick pop completely out of the end of the remote lever, and managing to get the striker lever to pop out of the selector 'groove' whilst the gearbox was in reverse..... don't ask but I bet I couldn't do it again......I got a long gearstick off a guy on ebay who's breaking a P6, fitted it to my car and it works soooooooo much better than any of the others I've tried. Yeah go on then, I'm a whimp :oops:

Anyway, it turns out that my problem with selecting 2nd was actually caused by trying to select reverse, ie the striker was going too far and trying to select reverse when I actually wanted 2nd. Gear selection is no 100% more slick than it's ever been :D

cheers

Dave
 
[quoteproblem with selecting 2nd was actually caused by trying to select reverse, ie the striker was going too far and trying to select reverse when I actually wanted 2nd][/quote]
Was the gearlever the cause of this problem ? I do think the shorter gearlever looks nicer
 
Dave

I too prefer the look of the short gearstick, but the (long) gearstick works like a charm. Problem is that there are 2 different lengths of short gearstick and I need a reverse sleeve for the shorter of the 2, or a new bottom bush for the original (longer) one. I don't think you can get bottom bushes any more :( so when I get a shorter reverse sleeve I'll go back to the short one. When I get some more time (and the inclination :) ) I'll drop the gearbox and see what can be done about the selectors. A new striker would probably help too. I'm happy with how it performs for now.

cheers

Dave
 
Guys

I've discovered a a leak from my clutch master cylinder which causes the reservoir to drink fluid rather too quickly for my liking. How easy is it to repair the cylinder or is it easier to put a new one in? Also are there any handy tips for removing and refitting?

cheers in anticipation of yet more excellent technical assistance :D

Dave
 
Master cylinder ?

I'd take it apart and look at the bore for scoring .Check the long spring as mine had half fractured and was scoring the bore.If OK a repair kit should be OK.
I found it a pig of a job putting it back , getting the clevis pin in and then the split pin. Harvey may know an easier method
 
DaveHerns said:
I found it a pig of a job putting it back , getting the clevis pin in and then the split pin. Harvey may know an easier method
Click to expand...

I've not had too many problems putting them back, but getting the split pin and clevis pin out in the first place can be a bit awkward if they're seized. While it's all out make sure the clevis is free on the threaded pushrod, then when it goes back on it's nice and easy to set it all up properly.

"Vaultsman" has posted some pics of the m/cyl on here somewhere from when he did his, and they should give you an idea of what you're in for.
 
Cheers Gents

I have a repair kit and will remove the offending item this weekend, hopefully it'll hold out until then. It seems to be ok one day then will spill have the contents of the reservoir the next day :?

Dave
 
After a slow decline in the gearchange smoothness of my car I've decided it's time to replace the selector striker on the gearchange. I've had the parts for a while now but I've been waiting for a suitable opportunity to tackle the job.

I've read and re-read all of Harvey's advice on this topic and made a start today after work. The front of the car was put up on ramps and the gearstick was removed. Next, the air cleaner box and front exhaust section were removed followed by the front of the prop shaft. The gearbox was supported by a jack and the mounting bracket was removed completely. This allowed the front of the prop shaft to come away completely and be put out of the way. At this stage I noticed that the screw cap on the sliding portion of the prop shaft had been cross threaded so that's something else I'll look at rectifying before I reconnect it.

With the exhaust and prop shaft out of the way there is now much more access to the gearbox. After slowly lowering the gearbox, taking care to make sure the engine did not make contact with the reserve fuel tap, I pulled back the reverse gear selector and manouvered the selector striker out of the gear selector groove. During all of this I discovered a considerable coating of oil all over the gearbox. Not sure where that is coming from but there were drops of clean oil on the gearbox cooling vanes so I'm wondering if I have a leak somewhere.

The picture below shows the current state of affairs. Not a brilliant picture I know but hopefully you can see where I'm at.

CIMG3447.jpg


I've tried to drive out the pin holding the selector striker in place but have not been able to move it at all. So I'm left with a dilemma. How to get the remote lever out with the gearbox in situ. I know Harvey has said that long nimble fingers help but I'm not sure where. I have good access to the remote lever I just can't get it out.

I may just have to remove the gearbox and be done with it. If I do go that route, bearing in mind that I'm working on my own, how easy/difficult is it for one person to remove? How heavy is the gearbox? Can I take the weight on my own to remove it? Obviously I'll be supporting it with jacks or other suitable supports during removal but can one person safely manhandle it from under the car? My big fear is that I get it out, get it fixed and then cannot get it back in. The other question I've been pondering is what happens to the engine once the gearbox is removed? Does it spring back up again or do I need to support the back of the engine whilst the gearbox is out?

Any advice on how to proceed would be gratefully received.

Cheers

Dave
 
Hmmmmmm strangely quiet here today.....

Anyway, I've been cracking on under the car and the gearbox is out :D Needs a bit of a clean too but I've taken the opportunity to sort some areas in the transmission tunnel and bulkhead that needed the underseal redoing.

CIMG3455.jpg


Here you see the old worn striker and the nice new one

CIMG3452.jpg


And I now have a nice new selector remote.

CIMG3454.jpg


Just gotta clean the gearbox and get it back in now. Then I've got to flush the rad and heater matrix and replace a couple of hoses and do an oil change.....

What fun! :D

Dave
 
Your post on Friday was too late for me, and I've been out today, and look what happens when I'm not here, you end up taking the gearbox out....... :LOL:

The selector striker lever that was on there was one of the later ones with the nylon bush on there which always breaks and falls off. You won't have the same problem with the new one.

Once the gearbox is dropped back you just need to reach over the top of the remote and undo the 4 nuts. It's a bit of a stretch and a bit uncomfortable, but easily do-able. I' wouldn't ever take the box out to do one, but if that's the way you found it easiest to do it then that's fine. It remains to be seen if you still think the same when you've got to lift the box back in.

And BTW the gearbox isn't that heavy at all, but you know that by now don't you! It will be a lot lighter to put back once all that dirt has been washed off.
 
Hi Harvey

I figured that it would involve reaching over to undo the 4 nuts on top of the selector plate, but my short fingers had no chance of getting in there. I could reach the rear 2 but not the front.

As you can see the gearbox is nice and clean again and yes it wasn't that difficult to get out once I found all the bolts. The long bolt above the starter was the trickiest and I'm sure it will be equally tricky getting it back in. The box came out straight too, no turning it to get the starter hump at the top as suggested, it just pulled straight off :D

CIMG3456.jpg


I'm glad I took it out and cleaned it up though. I can read all the numbers on it now and I suspect that's the first time they've seen the light in quite some time. The box willgo back in tomorrow.

Dave
 
It's only the 2000/2200 gearboxes that need to be turned to get the starter hump at the top, V8's are very simple, they just come straight out.
 
When you put it back I'd take the dowels out of the gearbox and knock them back into the block where they should be.
 
colnerov said:
Did you identify the source of the oil leak?
Click to expand...

Nope, I checked all over the box and can't see any obvious signs. I'm hoping that now it's clean any leaks will be more apparent and easier to trace.

harveyp6 said:
When you put it back I'd take the dowels out of the gearbox and knock them back into the block where they should be.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll do that.
 
And make sure the rear flange nut is tight, as if that's loose it will cause difficulty in engaging second. If it is very loose then it's best to find out while the box is still out, as it's a sign of more serious internal problems.
 
The gearbox is back in :D

It wasn't too bad refitting it with me aligning it while my trusty assistant operated the trolley jack. The longest bit has been reconnecting everything and I still have to refit the exhaust.

The rear flange nut wasn't loose Harvey but it did take a half turn before the torque wrench clicked.

I also discovered one or two loose sump bolts too so that might account for some of the oil at the back end of the engine. I'll get round to cleaning the engine sometime to match the shiny gearbox.

I'll report back on results once i had a test run later.

Dave
 
Test run completed and gearchange is sooooooooooooo much better. Everything is much tighter and gearchanges are short and precise so all-in-all a worthwhile exercise.

Think I need a bath now. I ache all over, doesn't bode well for the next few days :?

Cheers

Dave
 
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